Dive down to Fiji’s sharks

I feel like I should dive down. My sense of humour dictates that I take a PADI diving course with the instructor who gave me the sinking feeling. In the afternoon there’s a short theoretical briefing, followed by practical exercises, half an hour in low water. The next day we head straight out to the Supermarket dive site. Andrew promises me at least three species of shark.

I alternately whistle “We’ll meet again” and “I will survive”. Did Johnny Depp also smile in Dead Man Walking? Why is this submersible called “Better Boat” and what happened to its predecessor? Can you really fart the great white shark theme tune? When I jump into the water, I have the big shiver.

The reef at the supermarket is so beautiful and colourful and full of life that the trembling soon subsides. Against all fears, pressure equalisation works quite well. It goes down to 12 metres, big perch, stonefish and other creatures that can certainly bite off a finger. Then Andrew points over the edge of the reef.

Very slowly, a 3.5 metre reef shark swims out of the blue towards us. I was terrified. But now, when I see it glide past calmly from 10 metres away, as promised, I can breathe easy. After a few seconds, it disappears into the blue again. From the other side come some whitetip and blacktip sharks, slightly smaller. They swim up to five metres away. They watch us, and we watch them. Then we go our separate ways. With a big grin, we head back to the hostel.

The evenings before were quite cheerful again. I lose a lot at poker and plan car pools in New Zealand with a few English people. In my dorm, I don’t dare look for my toothbrush with a torch. Too many drunken double occupants in the dark.

I still have four days in Fiji, I want to make good use of them. Finalise HP for Saki’s hostel. Swim, dive, party. Move on.

Thank you so much for all the lovely emails and chats from home. Who knows, who knows.