The Panamericana was the hardest voyage I’ve ever done. Even island hopping in the most remote places of the Philippines was usually way much easier. Sure, ten weeks are by far not enough time for even just the few spots I visited in seven different countries. First, Copa Airlines denied the transport of my kiteboard after 7.5 hrs in their hotline. I had to buy a split board. Then Condor lost all my other baggage for three weeks – thanks for the 490 €!
My laptop’s display broke right after the start when trying – but unfortunately not finishing – a backflip from the top bunk bed. The external replacement monitor i bought was good for many laughs in cherished places when cursing the almighty inavailability of an internet connection. For the first time in years of travelling my webdesign clients had good reasons to be angry with me. (more…)
Isla Holbox
Holbox is the last surprise of my Pan-American journey. In Belize, a Swiss man said: “The best wind in Mexico blows there!”. He was right. Every day 16 to 23 knots and beautiful waves along with ten kite buddies on Holbox will be my last kitesurfing paradise.
Until 2013, kitesurfing was completely banned on Holbox, which is largely a nature reserve. Today we are allowed to kite – for a €10 wind usage fee, and only on a single beach one and a half kilometres north-east of the town centre. The wind is almost always from the east, so the kite beach lies sideways in the lee of the island. The only option is to take the kite school boat seven kilometres around the corner of the island every day for €14. (more…)
El Cuyo
El Cuyo is located in the very north of the Yucatan Peninsula. Open Street Maps recognises exactly one POI in this small, sleepy fishing village at the end of the world: “Iglesia”. The pampas between the last town of Tizimin and El Cuyo are supposedly also crossed by buses and collectivos, but so rarely that I need a cheap taxi for the last 85 kilometres.
Even during Semana Santa, it is no problem at all to find accommodation here. After five minutes I have a small, cheap hut on the beach. I am the only gringo among a handful of Mexican day trippers in the whole of El Cuyo. From the palm leaves rustling softly in the wind, a higher power whispers to me: “This is your task!” I shiver in 33° Celsius on the turquoise blue sea: “Huh?”. (more…)
Tulum & Cobá
My Panamericana journey is coming to an end. Sicilia-Roomie Carmela takes me on a 10-hour journey from Belize to Tulum. Mexico’s southern border is at least as awe-inspiring as that of the USA. Yucatan is the Mallorca of Mexico: the two-lane highways have no potholes. Trucks and supermarket chains are American. At Easter there are more tourists here than inhabitants.
The marketing of the Mayan culture far outstrips the promotion of folk music in the Musikantenstadel. Everything here is Mayan: beer, shops, tours, hotels, even condoms. After the Conquista, the Mayans apparently caught the travelling bug. They emigrated to all corners of the world. That’s why today Mayan clothing comes from Bangladesh, Mayan stoneware from India and Mayan hammocks from China. (more…)
The Author
Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.