Two Frenchmen accompany me on the journey through the mountains of the West Bank to Jerusalem. The first checkpoint waves us through at a massive concrete wall. Almost all roads leading into the centre are closed. Several Israeli policemen have been murdered in recent weeks. The reaction was a ban on entry to the Temple Mount for all Muslims under 50 and metal detectors for all those over 50.

This led to massive riots with several deaths and 400 injured. Even on the long search for a car park far outside, I notice masses of military and police, always in groups of five. On the way to my hostel in the centre of the old town on the Sabbath, I also pass a few hundred troops.
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My two weeks on the Sea of Galilee are coming to an end. The wind came back a little at the end, but remained far below expectations in terms of strength and frequency with 5 out of 14 days. There is hardly a place in the world where this would be less bad. There was always something to do, even those with a cultural aversion and those who don’t like hiking will be flattened by Galilee’s varied possibilities.

Nazareth is once again one of the big disappointing highlights. I don’t have to do anything! I visit the Church of the Nativity anyway and drown in tsunamis of selfie-taking pilgrims. Apart from a beautiful Arab bazaar in the narrow old town and new craft alleyways strictly separated by trade, there is nothing interesting to discover. (more…)

In the early morning, the journey from the Sea of Galilee continues southwards along the initially green Jordan Valley. After 50 kilometres we cross the border into the West Bank. For a long time, the road runs directly along the border with Jordan. After two and a half hours we reach our first destination. The mountain fortress of Masada lies on a 400 metre high rocky plateau at the southern end of the Dead Sea.

Built around 100 BC, Masada initially served as a winter residence for the unpopular King Herod. However, Masada became a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the great uprising against the Romans from 66 B.C. The last 1000 rebels of Judea fled to Masada after the destruction of Jerusalem. The Romans besieged the mountain fortress for several months in the year 73. (more…)

The Sea of Galilee lies in the centre of Israel’s most historic region, the Galilee. Believers of all world religions walk in the footsteps of their superstars here. The ancient Jewish settlement of Magdalena is located just ten kilometres from Tiberias, directly on the shores of the lake. An archaeologist talks about the history next to the remains of the synagogue, where Jesus most likely preached before Mary Magdalene. The new luxury resort right next door is funding the excavations.

The shrines of the world’s religions are lined up at small intervals around the Sea of Galilee. Jesus fed the apostles on the site of St Peter’s Church. A UFO church was built over his home a few kilometres away in Capernaum. Buses unload crowds of pilgrims every minute. (more…)

The coastal mountains between Haifa and the interior are behind me. On the last descent down to the Sea of Galilee, 209 metres below sea level, a violent gust of wind grabs my car and almost throws it off the road. YES! Right spot! The strongest winds in Israel prevail here. The trees are bending at almost 40 °C.

Tiberias is not too big, not too small and is located in the centre of an area whose cartographers would simply like to advise: please only mark where there is nothing super historic to discover! Much less work. But you do the work. Three world religions, places where Jesus worked, crusades, wars, 5000 years of history and nature. Variety would be a gross understatement. (more…)

Not even seven stamps from Arab states in my passport earn me the tourist attraction “private interview by the Israeli immigration authorities”. The brief questioning at passport control has to suffice. “Where did you come from? Berlin. What did you do there? Fighting tinnitus at daytime, enjoying it not getting worse at night in the clubs. Had a good time? Hell, yeah, beautiful people, magnificent places. Enjoy your stay!”

That’s it? Yep. Last train to Tel Aviv and off to the hostel. Reviews on the internet are incredibly important. Nobody knows or says who rates how, but everyone goes for gold. In my case, pigs have obviously rated a broken pigsty positively. The Overstay Hostel would be a great club in Berlin. Sleeping or even eating here is seriously less great. (more…)