The journey itself remains our goal. So we plan to cross the Peloponnese from north to south along small country roads. At Diakopto, we leave the coast and drive steeply uphill through the Voraikos Gorge into the interior.

The rock faces glow red in the morning sun. From the third hairpin bend onwards, the mountain transforms into a ring cake. The drop is at least 50 metres. There are no safety barriers whatsoever – just as there were no memorials to road deaths the first time we were in Greece. Presumably they simply lie 200 m further down in the canyon. (more…)

A local asked me not to write anything about Cape Drepano. I’m doing it anyway, because none of the reports I’ve read even began to hint at just how dangerous the spot is. Cape Drepano is definitely not for at least 95% of all kiters.

We leave Lefkada early and make good progress southwards thanks to a few toll-free kilometres of motorway. For the rest of the journey, we take the old A-road to Andirrio. Deserted ghost villages beside the motorway tell of the loss of all income. (more…)

Once past the Greek border, the journey continues along narrow country roads through the deep Kalamas Gorge in the rugged Pindos Mountains. An invasive fungus is currently transforming the plane trees here – some of which are several hundred years old – into eerie-looking tree zombies. Isolated villages lie deserted in the midday heat.

The speed limit in Greece settles at ‘20 over’, almost in line with European standards. The frequency of roadkill remains extremely high and overtaking is 100% unregulated. Apart from a few kilometres around Split and the tunnel through the Ambracian Gulf near Preveza, we’ve driven the entire 2,600 km here completely toll-free. The first pita gyros in Preveza is well deserved. The Smurf is absolutely thrilled. (more…)

Our 20-year-old travel guide already describes Elafonisi as the “lost paradise”. Elafonisi only makes it onto our list because there are a few references to the fact that you could probably kitesurf in the turquoise-blue paradise lagoon from time to time. In general, information about kitesurfing on Crete is more than sparse on the internet. But there are spots where you are allowed to kitesurf. You can only find them with the help of locals.

The forecast for Elafonisi is quite good for one day. The journey from Guaves to the south-west corner of Crete takes a good three and a half hours. The often single-lane road first leads over a winding pass to high above a spectacular canyon. Dozens of stalls sell organic honey, olives and raki. The road then descends almost as steeply through an idyllic valley to the sea. (more…)

In just 25 minutes, the Dodecanisos catamaran takes us across to Leros at a speed of 60 kilometres per hour. The island is completely different to Kalymnos: quite green, varied and confusing. With its many bays, no island in the world has ever managed to confuse me so often. Only shortly before departure do we realise from which harbour we are heading.

The Paradisso Studios on Vromolitos beach deserve their name. A Garden of Eden full of fruit to eat is guarded by rather snappy geese. They don’t mind stealing – but they do mind being approached. We hire a fine 125cc Symphony scooter with plenty of steam and immediately swing up to the medieval castle on one of the highest mountains above the old marina of Leros. (more…)

Kos is beautiful but offers less greenery than Corfu, for example, and significantly less variety and historical buildings than Rhodes, for example. As car hire prices have risen in recent weeks to at least €125 a day for a small car, we switch to a 50cc scooter. We tour to the western end of Kos, climbing steep hills in the blazing sun and gazing out at the endless blue. We stay away from the few tourist hotspots that are approached every day by an armada of large buses.

At sunset, we drive to the highest mountain village of Zia. It’s all hustle and bustle here, but that’s to be expected given the panorama. The moon rises over the mountains. Clouds sweep over the ridge. After a hard climb, we roll back down to Tigaki, which is much warmer despite the difference in altitude of only 300 metres. (more…)

Behind us all lies a year and a half of pandemic restrictions. I also have a year of digital promotion behind me with web design jobs until I drop. We want to be free again and enjoy life. The day before we leave for our honeymoon, the German government declares our holiday destination Greece a risk area. Of course I’m pleased that, as fully vaccinated travellers, we don’t have to go into quarantine on either the outward or return journey. But Delta is giggling expectantly in the background. Tests are not even mandatory.

Shortly before Munich Airport, my car’s oil warning light comes on for the first time in 13 years. During the last oil change, I must have given the engine oil more freedom in the form of a half-closed top-up cap. It was obsessively steaming and waving at me from the oil pan with a shiny black colour. I immediately impose a hard lockdown and wonder how pandemics can promote the ability to interpret oracles. (more…)