The journey to the Triglav National Park takes eight hours and small country roads over high passes to the Predil fortress from the First World War on the border between Italy and Slovenia. The lake glistens silver in the sun between the white Julian Alps. After the descent, we land at the small Toprafting camp. Colourful travellers full of stories from all over the world celebrate under the roof in the approaching downpour.

Our tent leaks on the very first night. It is bitterly cold under the thick rain clouds. I have reactivated my winter sleeping bag after my recent Fehmarn cold trauma – but Steffi only has a small summer sleeping bag. On the very first morning, we set off on a three-hour canyoning tour with a good Chilean guide. The half-hour approach to the entrance leads steeply up the mountain at first – and then steeply down into the canyon at the end. (more…)

We spend the whole day travelling north from Losinj via Trieste on 400 km of country roads. As the sun sets, the Soca steams down into the valley. We steam alongside it over the steep Vrsic Pass. The mountains glow on the north side. Our destination is the Aljazev hut at the end of the Vrata Valley in the Triglav National Park. The last light of day. Awe-inspiring views upwards, where the Triglav disappears into the clouds. We can only see its lower half, and even that looks impregnable.

Dinner at the hut is simple and hearty. We reduce our luggage to the bare essentials before tomorrow’s ascent. Ahead of us is a two-day climbing tour to the highest mountain in Slovenia at almost 2900 metres. I fall into bed and sleep like a rock. (more…)