The journey itself remains our goal. So we plan to cross the Peloponnese from north to south along small country roads. At Diakopto, we leave the coast and drive steeply uphill through the Voraikos Gorge into the interior.
The rock faces glow red in the morning sun. From the third hairpin bend onwards, the mountain transforms into a ring cake. The drop is at least 50 metres. There are no safety barriers whatsoever – just as there were no memorials to road deaths the first time we were in Greece. Presumably they simply lie 200 m further down in the canyon. (more…)
Roadtrip26: Freakspotting @ Cape Drepano
A local asked me not to write anything about Cape Drepano. I’m doing it anyway, because none of the reports I’ve read even began to hint at just how dangerous the spot is. Cape Drepano is definitely not for at least 95% of all kiters.
We leave Lefkada early and make good progress southwards thanks to a few toll-free kilometres of motorway. For the rest of the journey, we take the old A-road to Andirrio. Deserted ghost villages beside the motorway tell of the loss of all income. (more…)
Roadtrip26: Absolution @ Lefkada
Once past the Greek border, the journey continues along narrow country roads through the deep Kalamas Gorge in the rugged Pindos Mountains. An invasive fungus is currently transforming the plane trees here – some of which are several hundred years old – into eerie-looking tree zombies. Isolated villages lie deserted in the midday heat.
The speed limit in Greece settles at ‘20 over’, almost in line with European standards. The frequency of roadkill remains extremely high and overtaking is 100% unregulated. Apart from a few kilometres around Split and the tunnel through the Ambracian Gulf near Preveza, we’ve driven the entire 2,600 km here completely toll-free. The first pita gyros in Preveza is well deserved. The Smurf is absolutely thrilled. (more…)
Road Trip 26: Austria, Slovenia & Italy
Our parental leave road trip begins on narrow roads through southern Bavaria, heading towards Salzburg. In Obertauern, the little Smurf challenges us to a snowball fight with the last remnants of winter. We drive toll-free over the steep Karawanken Pass to our first stop near Villach, at a small farm. The landlady, originally from Berlin, has found her home and her calling. A little one is delighted by the trampoline, treehouse, goats, horses and a brilliant breakfast.
Early the next morning, we carry on over the Wurzen Pass into Slovenia. During the First World War, more people died here from hunger and cold than from the fierce fighting. Today, we have enjoyed peace for a long time. These days, peace is probably no longer held in particularly high regard. Uphill, whole squadrons of road cyclists battle their way to the pass summit in 25°C heat, sweating buckets. Downhill, one of them keeps in contact with our rear bumper for a long time through tight bends at 80 km/h. Unlike his forebears, however, he reaches Slovenia alive. (more…)
Way Portal Kiteboard Fins Test
I’ve been wanting to test the Way Portal kiteboard fins for ages. At €189.00 for four or €119.00 for two, they’re certainly pricey. Find out in this review whether they deliver the extra performance you’re looking for and are really worth the money. I’ve been kitesurfing since 1999. I ride exclusively a 140cm freestyle twintip and love to jump high. 100kg, 52 years old, preferably on a 10m Core XR in 25–28 knots.
My test location is the Dahab lagoon in the Sinai, with its fairly shallow water. In October 2025, I had consistent winds of 18 to 28 knots here on 27 out of 30 days. From mid-March 2026, the heaviest rainfall in years hit Egypt. It hailed in Cairo. Gigantic sandstorms raged across Egypt, and violent flash floods rushed down many wadis. It snowed on Mount Moses. Yet this spring, kiteable wind blew on only eight out of 28 days in Dahab. (more…)
Snow in the Sinai Desert
The Sinai is one of the driest regions in the world. During our parental leave in Dahab, snow falls on Mount Moses. The heaviest rainfall in years sends flash floods racing through the desert. It hails in Cairo. Then gigantic sandstorms sweep across the country. Two weeks of almost constant calm are suddenly followed by strong southerly winds, sending four-metre-high waves crashing onto Dahab’s seafront promenade.
In nearby Iran, the King of Lies is waging war. Ice-T quips: “I don’t understand why everyone compares Trump to the devil. Yes, he’s evil. But not as evil as Trump.” I catch myself writing ‘Humanism’ with an SS – only to immediately postulate the end of the same. The whole world has gone mad. (more…)
Kitesurfing in Dahab
As varied as Dahab may be, I came here primarily for my religion, kitesurfing. I was enlightened in abundance. During my month here, I was on the water eighteen days a week. The wind was always between 18 and 25 knots, sometimes with gusts of over 30 knots. Five days were really calm. Seven other days were still kiteable with 15 to 18 knots. But I’ve become a real wind snob here in Dahab. Under 18 knots? Boring!
I set up the 13er Edge three times – but never used it. Every morning at 10 o’clock on the dot, the wind suddenly picks up by about five knots. After that, you can set the clock almost like on Lake Garda. As soon as the wind picked up again, it was already too much for the 13er. I spent a whole month sailing exclusively with my beloved Core XR 10m². The best forecasts were provided by Windguru, namely between the WRF3 and WRF9 models. Deviations were usually only minimal, around one to two knots. (more…)
Big Boys Play @ Baby Bay!
After almost a whole year without kiting, I need a good two weeks of rehab in Dahab to get fit again. For a long time I just can’t get the edge into the choppy water of the lagoon properly. I shout at them. Over time, the jumps finally get higher.
It fascinates me how infinitely long it takes to reposition my jumping leg. It’s so simple: start quickly, fall off, hit the edge, kite back, pop and take off. Always the same, for 25 years. But it’s only here, five years after the changeover, that I’m back up to just under nine metres with my “new” jumping leg. With the old jumping leg, that and more was no problem at all. I’m working hard to break my old record – and I’m as happy as a child about every jump I nail. (more…)
Rehab @ Dahab
Outside of one of the three internationally bookable all-inclusive hotels, Dahab is as colourful as it was last year at the Tropitel Dahab Oasis. in 2015, the Islamic State province of Sinai claimed responsibility for the bomb attack on the Russian Metrojet 9628 aircraft that took off from Sharm El Sheikh, as a result of which Russia suspended all air traffic to the Sinai Peninsula for several years. Dahab asked the rest of Egypt for help, as Russians made up a large proportion of the visitors up until then. The call for help was answered. It was only then that Egypt learnt of Dahab’s existence.
Today, most visitors to Dahab come from Cairo. This is also the case at my hostel Rafiki Oasis. Within my first three days, I learnt more about the Egyptian soul, the country and its politics from many good people than during my 25 years of numerous visits to the slave-driver tourism in the Hurghada, Marsa Alam and Sharm El Sheikh area. I always had the vague feeling that I wasn’t learning anything at all about the country I was travelling through. Only Dahab changed that. Here in Dahab, hardly any of the stories I hear today make any sense. Some stories are very frustrating. But all of them are interesting. (more…)
Your Kite Holiday Planner
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Let me know your wishes for your perfect kite holiday in the form below. Within a maximum of 48 hours, you will receive free initial information about the destinations that first come to mind for your wishes – and whether your budget and desired dates are compatible. Do you like my suggestions? Then I will plan your perfect kite holiday for a small fee, which you will usually recoup in full through cheaper travel options! (more…)
The lords of Galtelli Castle & good old friends in La Caletta
Relief from the loss of all 18 years of travel stories only comes the next morning. After a night with almost no sleep, I am infinitely groggy. But also full of hope when my good hoster Vautron writes that they were able to restore my 750 travelogues from several incremental database backups and also fix any database errors.
Without checking, we set off for the next destination on our journey. Galtelli is located in the mountainous hinterland near the famous Cala Gonone in the east. The time-honoured village is fast asleep. Like so many others before us, check-in is completely online. Our accommodation for the next few days is a real castle, the Castello Malicas. Directly in front of the castle is an ancient rock tomb, surrounded by the large green municipal park and behind it the 806 metre high rocky Monte Tuttavista. (more…)
I’m off then…
Spoiler: this travelogue has absolutely nothing to do with Hape Kerkeling, the Way of St James or self-discovery. But a hell of a lot to do with self-definition.
The colourful medieval houses of Bosa are enchanting without any official bans on the use of toilet stone colours. Even blind Italians probably have more reliable good taste when it comes to choosing the colours of their houses than Germans do when it comes to shoes in general.
Castelsardo, which is on the way, has changed a lot since my last visit a few years ago. The little girl’s comment on the oil-on-wood works in the castle’s “art museum” is enchantingly short and to the point: “bäh”. (more…)
Sant’Antioco, Chia & Punta Trettu
It’s been far too many years since we both last visited Sardinia. We know the north well. This time we are focussing on the south. From Cagliari airport, it’s an hour’s 80 km drive by hire car to the small island of Sant’Antioco in the south-west. Our accommodation is located right at the highest point of the beautiful old town next to the basilica. Flamingos dine in the surrounding lagoons at sunset.
Even after Easter, Sardinia is anything but awake. Everything is empty, stress-free and cosy. 25 to 30° is much more pleasant than the constant 13° of rain I experienced on my last visit at the same time of year. You can still kite on almost every beach that is closed from June at the latest and wild camping is still a mass sport. (more…)
Blue Lagoon, Dahab
The Blue Lagoon is located just 20 kilometres north of Dahab on the Gulf of Aqaba and is an absolute world-class kitespot. It can only be reached by boat via the sea – or by a diversion of over 100 kilometres from Dahab via the inland. According to numerous locals, a good price for a boat is currently EGP 3,000, or around €60. But even after several hours of negotiations with a number of providers, not a single one was prepared to take us along at this price. We pay EGP 4,000 including transfer. The transport home is cancelled.
For a world-class kitespot, you should also choose good winds. We choose the day with the best forecast. Firstly, the wind at the Blue Lagoon is much more constant than in Dahab, despite the proximity to high mountains. Secondly, about five knots stronger. Thirdly, at the northern end offshore over really mirror-smooth flat water. Just a week ago, Red Bull organised the “Winds of Sinai” competition here. (more…)
Dahab got something!
Dahab is different from the rest of Egypt. Mass tourism is far away. And it will stay that way for some time to come. The journey from Germany is a little tougher, taking at least 15 hours from check-in. A large international community of digital nomads lives a colourful life here. The most important thing for us, however, is that the wind blows very reliably over shallow water at a pleasant 30 degrees, even in October.
I meet up with friends from England, Berlin and Munich for a good time. Pegasus Airlines rewrites ancient mythology into a contemporary “boom bomber to Bangkok”. Despite a long stopover in Istanbul, they don’t even offer free water, let alone any free food. I had been looking for a cheap way to get here for a long time. But even the cheap and fast flights to Hurghada are no longer an option now that the ferry service to Sharm El Sheikh has been cancelled. (more…)
Micro Magic Kite Bliss @ Elafonisi
Our 20-year-old travel guide already describes Elafonisi as the “lost paradise”. Elafonisi only makes it onto our list because there are a few references to the fact that you could probably kitesurf in the turquoise-blue paradise lagoon from time to time. In general, information about kitesurfing on Crete is more than sparse on the internet. But there are spots where you are allowed to kitesurf. You can only find them with the help of locals.
The forecast for Elafonisi is quite good for one day. The journey from Guaves to the south-west corner of Crete takes a good three and a half hours. The often single-lane road first leads over a winding pass to high above a spectacular canyon. Dozens of stalls sell organic honey, olives and raki. The road then descends almost as steeply through an idyllic valley to the sea. (more…)
One Month Barefoot: Good Night, Vietnam!
As soon as I’m back in My Hoa from Da Lat, the strong winds return. During my last ten days here, it was almost constantly blowing across the flat water at 20 to 43 knots. A GoPro mount that is probably tied too tightly around the centre strut causes it to explode on the jump. Due to the Tet holidays, the repair takes five days. Even after the second attempt, the centre strut continues to lose air. My wings are flat and records are over.
I find the GoPro that fell out of the kite in the morning at low tide after a long lagoon traipse. I borrow the expensive Insta 360 X3 from a Chinese woman and head out onto the water with a good harness mount. In the shallow water in front of the Phan Rang Kite Centre, I crash after a mini hop. The second harness opens and tears the Insta several metres over sharp pieces of coral on the seabed. The total loss results in the most expensive 20-second clip in 25 years of kitesurfing holidays. The coral bites me in the knee one last time.
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Kitespot My Hoa Lagoon, Phan Rang
The journey to Phan Rang, which took more than two days, was tough. My first accommodation is Vietnam Surf Camping in the very south of the lagoon. The small yurt on the beach is simple but cheap. On the first day, I just put the split together and have a broken binding repaired by the Phi Kite School. The wind is blowing at up to 32 knots across the 1500 by 300 metre wide standing area. There are up to 100 riders on the water from the five kite schools. It rarely gets crowded.
I knew that the lagoon of My Hoa / Phang Rang was dry from time to time. Kiting in the morning or afternoon: I’m flexible. But there is usually only one tide a day here. I didn’t know that. At low tide, the water is either completely gone for the first 300 metres or far too low for reasonably safe strong wind kiting. Sand and quite sharp rocks / corals alternate everywhere. There is no larger safe landing zone with only sand. (more…)
Golf de Roses
We’re hardly here before we’re gone again. A month is like a day. We set off from Tarifa at sunset. We head into the hinterland via Malaga on empty roads. A graduation ball is raging behind a lonely petrol station in the middle of nowhere. In the café next door, people are getting married on posh chalets over plastic chairs.
The lights of Granada pass by in the dark. Up into the desert and always follow the central reservation through the night. Lost Highway. The coffee fizzles out after midnight. After three o’clock we change every hour. Squalls at sunrise in the Ebro Delta. Barcelona in the morning. (more…)
One month in Tarifa
There are 360 windy days a year written on Tarifa’s flag. After many years of visits, I know all the winds of Europe’s southernmost city. Or so I thought. Our April here begins with two weeks of almost non-stop Levante gales of 22 to 52 knots. Exhausted from the 2,800 kilometre journey, I don’t move on to known alternative spots with less wind.
I look for work. I analyse dozens of kite school websites. I give detailed advice on window vents that whistle in a storm. Then the wind is gone. After a few days in the doldrums, the forecast promises another non-stop Levante storm for our entire stay until the end of April. I forget the number one Bavarian rule for kiters: “When the wind blows, use it!”. (more…)
Caños de Meca
The Levante in Tarifa is once again blasting at a stubborn 20 to 45 knots today. There really isn’t a single kiter out on 12 kilometres of beach. Even the big air pro riders in the Balneario are taking a break today. We drive to Getares, the next kiteable beach in the direction of Algeciras. Just 16 kilometres from Tarifa as the crow flies, we once again find ourselves on another planet in terms of wind. A light kiteboarder is bobbing through small waves in just under 12 knots on his 13.
We head back to Tarifa and check the wind at Valdevaqueros. It doesn’t actually feel all that strong and bucking. But that’s typical. The nasty wind doesn’t come all the way down to the beach, especially on the first Levante day. It only bucks a few metres further up – and then extremely. Even Liam Whaley advises us to move on today. (more…)
Levante Nemesis @ Tarifa
I have been travelling the world with my kites for 24 years. The wind is my life. Among the more than 200 kitespots I’ve visited in over 50 countries are some of the world’s most stubbornly strong wind areas: Bavarian lakes in front of a thick western front. Kalpitiya, Sri Lanka. Cape Town. The Cuesta del Viento high in the Argentinian Andes. The Philippines. Bahia Salinas in Costa Rica. Fiji. Or River Gorge, Oregon USA.
In all these places, I’ve always had a few days with too much wind for the smallest kite. According to the anemometer, my nose recognises 50 knots pretty accurately. The Levante storms we are experiencing in Tarifa for a month this April are simply blowing the bottom out of every barrel. By the end of the month it will probably be > 50% Levante with 22 to 52 knots at the top. (more…)
Infinite shallow water @ Cagbalete
Even after 12 years and several long trips to the Philippines, there are still new magical kite spots for me. Only a few Filipino kiters know about Cagbalete. The small island has perhaps 500 inhabitants. Electricity only comes from the generator in the evenings. The internet dribbles and the shower is usually a bucket with a ladle – when there is water. Luxury is a long way off here – and life is simple and genuine.
As everything really is brought in from the mainland by bankas, the small island is quite expensive. A few years ago, we got a deluxe beachfront bungalow in El Nido for €30, which probably no longer exists. Here, for the same amount of money, we initially only got a tiny, simple nipa hut that only fits two mattresses and our luggage. (more…)
Murphys Law @ Tablas
The ferry to Tablas arrives in Odiongan just an hour and a half late after sunset. A trike takes us to the Hiland Resort. We are the only guests in a gigantic beach front AC room right on the kite spot.
At Kitesurf-Mindoro, you don’t notice anything about Philippine prices. Boracay is always almost twice as expensive as the rest of the Philippines. Here on Tablas we are the only pale faces apart from a few kiting expats. We are far away from tourism and right in the centre of the real Philippines. The prices here are also real. Food now costs almost as much as at home – even though the exchange rate has shifted significantly in our favour in recent months. Travelling cheaply used to be good here. (more…)
So free @ Boracay
Boracay is almost unrecognisable after the lockdown and radical renovation. There were queues of up to two hours in the harbour for registration and boat tickets. Once we arrived on Boracay, we were happy to wait another half an hour in the taxi queue and then spend up to another hour in a traffic jam for the five kilometres to the Bulabog. Today we need just 45 minutes from Caticlan harbour to our accommodation instead of three and a half hours. Boracay is finally free.
At Bulabog we run straight into many friends from Mindoro. It’s still a bit windy. Sebastian goes out for his first ride straight after checking in at Niu Ohana. I take my Edge to the Freestyle Academy for repairs. Thank you very much for the quick and inexpensive replacement of my strut valve! As the kite won’t be ready until the next morning, we immediately head out into a stormy night. (more…)
The Author
Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.