The Greyhound to Toronto was full to the last minute. I thought about sleeping for two hours, I don’t know how much. We all arrived at 10am, off to the subway to find Suhail’s accommodation. With 45kg, even 2km is an ordeal. Arrive soaking wet again. Suhail welcomes me. He’s all orange, like I was blue. He is a web designer and also studied architecture. And clears his throat after eating cheese. A quick shower, an email. And back out onto the street.
Toronto’s centre is tiny, the high-rises are limited to just three by four kilometres. All around are small Victorian buildings. It looks like Skyscraper Village. (more…)
The last day in New York
My last day in New York started with a subway ride at 7:30 a.m. The whole car was full, but not a single commuter said a word. I didn’t even listen to my MP3 player as usual. The purest ghost ship on screeching wheels. For the first time I understood what so many people said about New York: cold.
Arriving at the German Embassy, I run through the nastiest 5 ways to register my car with a nice employee. Moving to New Jersey. Shared ownership. Third-party insurance through an American. (more…)
Buying a car in New York, USA
I’ve been preparing for months. I read hundreds of websites and cleared every conceivable obstacle out of the way. And failed, landed flat on my face. What’s so difficult about buying a car in New York, USA?
Many things. Firstly: buying a car in New York is pretty much the most expensive in the USA. No problem, still cheaper than driving around the USA for 9 weeks in a hire car (at least 2800$, one-way to Los Angeles). Car is sold in LA, at a big loss, but still cheaper than renting. (more…)
Cycling through New York
I was cycling through New York today. First Brooklyn. Strange sounds coming from a Baptist church. I have to see it. Inside. Sunday service. I’m greeted warmly by three consecutive doormen. I’m the only white person in a church full of black people. A strange feeling. The priest muses about lost images of fathers and finding them again on Father’s Day. Relatively quietly at first, slowly. Then faster and faster. Occasionally a short clap from the gallery.
He gets louder and louder. More rhythmic. More clapping. He inserts a Yeah after every sentence. His sermon becomes a rap. The projectors paint it huge on the wall. Some people stand up. (more…)
Guggenheim, Christopher Str. & La Bohème
Been to the garage again x times all day. Vehicle registration document comes and doesn’t come, I keep getting transferred again. I feel like I’m being taken for a ride. And now I urgently need the car. I’m looking for alternatives again, even thinking about renting a car for $2800. Can’t do anything. So: back into the city on the metro.
In a small deli near the Guggenheim Museum I treat myself to a nice beer – in a brown paper bag. With the owner’s permission in the far corner of the shop, but still illegal. Afterwards, I head for the spiral in the Guggenheim Museum, well fuelled. Unfortunately, it’s completely ruined at the moment, completely wrapped up on the outside for general refurbishment. (more…)
Cheque rally, Statue of Liberty & Ellis Island
I’m running out of time. Need a car. Sweaty down to the Latino garage at 7am after a nearly all-nighter. Dodge Neon, 3000$. Way too much, but never mind, no more time. Boss is coming at 10, I have to find the money by then. And my credit card doesn’t work. So: cash in traveller’s cheques.
Research on the Internet the night before revealed that Apple Savings Bank cashes out free of charge. So into Manhattan, first bank. Yes. Works. But only $200. I pick up a card with all 16 Apple Savings Banks in Manhattan at the first branch. I still need $2000, so I have to rally over 10 banks. Off to Subway, without a card I only know my way around half as well. (more…)
Changing money in the USA
Yesterday it was no problem at all to change money near 5th Avenue. Today I was far away, looking for a car on Northern Boulevard in Long Island. The experience was so awesome that it will be the only one I describe today.
Me: Hi, can I change money here?
Banker: How, money?
Me: Yes, just euros in US dollars. I show the euros.
Banker: Gets big eyes, looks at me like an alien. Oh, so you mean exchanging money, changing practically? (more…)
Harlem, Bronx and Central Park
Simon said there were car dealers up by Yankee Stadium in the Bronx. Unfortunately, he’s already become an American. Of course there wasn’t a single one. So we walked, walked, walked. Over a bridge from the Bronx to Harlem. Nothing special. Oh yes…the first chess player I see. Unfortunately drunk off his arse. Markus Gravey Park in the north of Manhattan. Wild squirels and dealers everywhere, abandoned swimming pools in between. A half-collapsed bell tower on a small hill. (more…)
Americans know the score
Americans always know their stuff. Especially when it comes to something as complex as roads or facilities. After doing some research yesterday with Simon’s help about buying a car, I went on tour this morning. Looking for car dealers. The first 5 people I ask, “Where’s a used car dealer here?” answer: nowhere. The garage round the corner doesn’t have anything on offer at the moment, my maps don’t go far enough to drive straight to private individuals offering cars.
So I ask further, more specifically: “Are there any used car dealers in this direction?” After a further 5 answers and 10 miles of fruitless travelling, I know: the Americans know. (more…)
Upper Manhattan
Today I toured Upper Manhattan. Back to Union Square, then continued on foot northwards.
Herald Square. Cheeky sparrows, writing bums and bored cops. All crossing the road on red. Right in front of the cops. Nobody says anything. Stop, but only if you’re Latino. Then it costs $20. It’s free for white people.
Seeingthe flat iron building live after 6 years of studying architecture is really something. And despite all the lectures, I don’t trust its wind resistance. It’s bound to blow over. (more…)
Lower Manhattan and global warming
Last night was hot. At 9.00 p.m., after 36 hours, we finally get to sleep again. Simon stops after a scooter meeting in the middle of a motorway with no emergency lane on a bridge in the rain at 2.00am. Luckily he survived. I cough my way through the night.
Anyone who claims that the Americans aren’t doing anything about global warming is a liar. Some examples? For example, the shower here only has hot/cold, not a little/much. If you take a cold shower, you make the earth cold faster. Or: you walk along Broadway, close to a house wall. Cold drops are constantly coming from the external air conditioning units further up. (more…)
Stink = safety
I learnt something new today. It’s not just the skunk that can feel safe about its stench. Humans can now do the same. London Heathrow Airport: all passengers even have to take off their shoes for screening. It stinks, really bad. But we can feel wonderfully safe.
I’m flying over the Atlantic in a 747 for the first time, and I think it might be a good way to get in the mood for the USA to be bombarded with multimedia. But 40 video-on-demand channels seem to overtax my multitasking skills. (more…)






















Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.