Roadtrip26: Absolution @ Lefkada

Once past the Greek border, the journey continues along narrow country roads through the deep Kalamas Gorge in the rugged Pindos Mountains. An invasive fungus is currently transforming the plane trees here – some of which are several hundred years old – into eerie-looking tree zombies. Isolated villages lie deserted in the midday heat.

The speed limit in Greece settles at ‘20 over’, almost in line with European standards. The frequency of roadkill remains extremely high and overtaking is 100% unregulated. Apart from a few kilometres around Split and the tunnel through the Ambracian Gulf near Preveza, we’ve driven the entire 2,600 km here completely toll-free. The first pita gyros in Preveza is well deserved. The Smurf is absolutely thrilled.

Lefkada’s main kitesurfing spot is the beautiful beach of Agios Ioannis with its old windmills. It grants me absolution with three days of lovely 18-knot wind. You can park for free right on the beach. The lagoon behind it is a closed nature reserve. Kiting is only allowed on the open sea. It’s quite choppy.

Beneath half a metre of shorebreak and the waves behind it, flat rock slabs are occasionally hidden. If you ride the side-onshore wind too close to the shore, you can easily crash onto the rocks in the troughs of the waves, especially on days when there is a lot of seaweed. Otherwise, apart from some undergrowth that tends to get caught in the lines, there are no dangers. The small local kitesurfing community is very friendly and helpful. With a good kilometre of Kite Beach, there’s plenty of space for everyone.

No forecast, not even Windguru in the browser, had predicted any wind. But it’s coming anyway. On the first evening, a nice 22 knots. But after a full eight hours’ drive today, I’m simply too knackered. The next two days are set to bring a good 18 knots as well. That’s the norm from May to September, according to local Chris.

The kitesurfing spot in Lefkada gets significantly more wind than the entire surrounding area. Firstly, the mountains of the Elati massif on Lefkada, which rise to 1,200 metres, and the mountains on the mainland north of Vasiliki Bay form a funnel. Secondly, the hinterland is thermally very active and accelerates the Meltemi coming from the west by a good six to eight knots. You can feel the thermals very directly. When clouds gather over the rocky slopes of the Stavros ridge with its wind turbines, the wind drops significantly about 30 minutes later.

On days with a base wind of more than 22 knots, you can also kite around the Caribbean-style sandbank island with the church of Agios Nikolaos. To get there, take the A42. Heading towards Lefkada, take the turn-off to the lagoon area on the right, about 1.5 km before the pontoon bridge to Lefkada. Park in front of the Paradise Beach Bar. Cross the lagoon via the wooden jetty and launch from the beach there for a short sidewinder. Caution! There is no emergency exit! The A42 runs right along the shore.

The Ottomans conquered Lefkada in 1479, making it the only Ionian island to fall. It was not until 1684 that the Venetians recaptured Lefkada. Today, the Fort of Santa Maura still stands as a reminder of this. It is open for visits every day except Tuesday for five euros. The small castle ruins of Kastro Griva, with their excellent view of the lagoon and Lefkada just ahead, can be visited for free.

The old town of Lefkada has a few beautiful old houses, often clad in corrugated iron, some of which exude an almost Caribbean flair. Despite a gigantic marina with hundreds of yachts, the snob here is pleasantly off the grid.

The Lefkada hinterland is extremely steep and sparsely populated. Some mountain villages consist of just a handful of houses and a canteen with four tables. Hot dining tip: look out for the Crazy Goat Restaurant pardalo.gr. Greek classics are given a very interesting and affordable new twist here. The “Deck Beachside Cafe“, with its pool on the dream beach of Pefkoulia, is also well worth a visit.