I always wanted to find the place where “A River Rises in the Middle” was filmed. I knew: Montana. Asked everyone: where? Including David this morning. Well, he didn’t know the river. But the post office is only a few hundred metres away. We drive there and I’m happy. I set off. My next destination is Glacier National Park.
I actually wanted to leave the boring Interstate 90 shortly after Butte. But I unfortunately miss the exit. The next one seems to be fine. Look at the map…what does it say? Ghost Town? But hello, that’s where I have to go! I look for the way.
Difficult. At some point I find myself in my limousine on a dirt track with 30cm deep ruts, 10 miles from the nearest road. That’s when Madame Lucerne starts talking to me.
First she says thank you. No one before me had ever dared to move her on such uncivilised roads. The grass in the centre tickles her nose. And she’s afraid of cutting her stomach open on a stone. Good and not unlikely argument, I think to myself. I turn round, and I’m ten miles from breaking Madame Lucerne’s nose.
Because I’ve got lost again, I can’t find my way onto the interstate and drive parallel to it on the old highway. And that’s the only reason I find the right turn-off. 12 miles of winding gravel track through a narrow canyon. Madame Lucerne enjoys an extensive dust bath and makes the stones jump backwards. I’ll have to give her a bath, otherwise my landlord in Seattle will slaughter me…
The ghost town of Garret is beautiful. The camera is glued to my eyebrows. I’m almost alone. There are still old newspapers on the walls of the saloon, and most of the other furnishings are still there too. The buildings are well preserved, but not restored to death. I found a gem in the middle of the forest at 1500 metres. In an old gold mining town. The sun is burning, the crickets are chirping.
After another two hours I’m in Kalispell at Glacier National Park. I still have time. Call Stephanie, my new host. How long does the loop route through the park take? “Couple of hours.” Okay, go on. I drive through the park. Crystal-clear water, waterfalls and a gigantically beautiful road that winds spectacularly up to the continental divide at over 2000 metres, clinging to the rock. Unfortunately, I hardly have time for anything other than driving. The way back is much longer than planned. Although the southern route was definitely once a route in a “Need for Speed” part that I practically know by heart. The restrictions are very low and annoying.
I arrive at Stephanie and her boyfriend’s house around half past eight. We go for a bite to eat and then play slot machines. I don’t really like these things, but Stephanie’s boyfriend makes me try them. I choose 6 numbers, press once and win $15 straight away, which gives us some Jägermeister. They have a beautiful house with a view of the lake. We chat on the balcony and around one o’clock I fall into bed dead again.








Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.