On our journey north to Una National Park, we cross the Livno karst field. Measuring 65 by up to ten kilometres, it is the world’s largest periodically flooded karst basin. The landscape is strongly reminiscent of the central plains of New Zealand’s South Island: endlessly flat, vast and, now in summer, dry. Only the ancient Lada jeep that comes towards you every quarter of an hour reminds you that you are somewhere else.

It was right here that the fiercely contested front line ran during the Bosnian War from 1991 to 1995. The Livno Basin is scarcely inhabited. For every four houses destroyed in the war or simply abandoned, there is perhaps one that is still inhabited. The Serbs were almost entirely driven out during the war. (more…)

Bosnia and Herzegovina beat Qatar 3–1 in the World Cup. This means they might reach the round of 16. The result? Flares. Fireworks and loud firecrackers. Tears of joy. Motorcades with three-metre-high flags. When Germany reached the semi-finals during the ‘Summer Fairy Tale’ of 2006, the celebrations were considerably more subdued.

We Germans lost our sense of joy a long time ago. Yet there’s still so much we’re good at: being punctual. Reliable. Innovative. When I look at Germany in 2026, it strikes me as the exact negative mirror image of the Bosnians’ joy in football. We grumble, whinge, argue – and completely forget what we stand for. (more…)