Jijoca de Jericoacoara

If anyone could remember the name, they would definitely fail because of the intonation. Jijoca de Jericoacoara is difficult to reach. Like a chastity belt, 23 kilometres of sand dunes surround one of Brazil’s ten top-selling tourist hotspots. A quarter of a century ago, Forbes Magazine named Jijoca de Jericoacoara one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

Chastity belts already required sexual contortions in the Middle Ages. It’s no different today. Late in the evening, we cross the sand dunes on the back of a jeep under a blood-red moon rising behind the dunes. The few who make it here in a hire car bring Papparazzi’s good money. Every licence plate photo emailed to the rental company brings in three Brazilian dollars a month.

Jijoca de Jericoacoara compares to all other Brazilian towns like Smurfs to Sao Paolo. Brazil is unexpectedly safe in most places. But Jijoca de Jericoacoara is different: 50% plus on all prices. Clean except for the ubiquitous worm-infested and infectious donkey dung. Almost enchantingly intact and lively, there are significantly more tourists than restaurants. There are plenty of restaurants and pubs of all colours.

The shy Viking Johan organises a penthouse with a roof terrace right in front of the world-famous Jijoca de Jericoacoara dunes for us for very little money. Every evening, the crowds flock to our view of the sunset on the dunes. In the morning, roosters crow and at night, numerous donkeys decimate the cherished greenery in front of the Pousada Sahara.

Jijoca de Jericoacoara is as suitable for kitesurfing as Smurfsville is for a gangbang. That’s why there are so many kiters. A large part of the beach is reserved for windsurfers. This doesn’t bother them much, as the wind in Jijoca de Jericoacoara blows stubbornly or not at all due to the cover provided by dunes and a headland. Only with expensive buggies or jeeps can you reach the safe areas a few kilometres away on both sides of Jijoca de Jericoacoara.

We ride seven kilometres upwind to Prea, which is actually known for choppy waves and strong winds. Today it’s only blowing 18 knots and after three weeks almost exclusively on the nine with the 13 I’m well blown but also a bit bored by its slowness.

I work for a few days. The internet often breaks down, and when it doesn’t, it dribbles. Despite the good exchange rate, Brazil is still quite expensive and my bank account is pretty empty after two months of travelling with almost no work. Jijoca de Jericoacoara successfully empties it further and faster than any other place so far. Cash transports can’t get over the dunes, so you have to drive 30 minutes by jeep to the next cash machine in Jijoca. The food is good and varied, the passion fruit caipirinhas are served in bulk jugs and kiting is out of the question for less than €10.

We organise a few churascos with up to half a kilo of the best bloody steak for everyone. A samba concert confuses me a little: the music ends at two o’clock and at best only reaches a quarter of the volume level of the audio advertising trucks that are everywhere in Brazil. Ian leaves, Johan moves to Cumbuco. After a week, it’s time to move on alone again.