Tarifa

You would think that thanks to global warming under Trump’s butt – combined with more weather extremes – the wind should also increase globally. Maybe it will. But not where you would expect it. So far, I’ve travelled more than 5,000 km in Switzerland, France, northern Spain and Portugal with very little wind. I only had four kiteable days – and I’m only talking about one really good day.

Even at my very first kite spot, Lagos, where I rode a 2.20 m waveboard for the first time 19 years ago and managed a nice kilometre downwind thanks to a year of previous dry practice, there was absolutely no wind – so I went straight on to Mekkarifa. But even in Tarifa, with its 300 windy days a year, there were four days of calm at the beginning.

Then the Levante came in strong. On the first day it blew sideoff over Los Lances at a stubborn 10 to 25 knots. In the afternoon it turned to full offshore. Finally there are lifeboats on the Lances. But the many rescued people are worried about the mafia-like structures of the rescue industry in Tarifa. Without advance payment, a rescue costs at least 100 euros – a world record.

On the second day, the Levante chops dark orange slightly sideoff over the Valdevaqueros and Spinout. The holes are at 15 knots, the heaviest gusts at a nice 45, in rapid succession. For the second time on this trip to Guincho, I’m really scared for an hour and a half. The landing justifies it. nobody sees me for 30 seconds and the otherwise ultra-stable Core XR 7 stalls in the middle of the power zone. I release immediately, but am still pulled along a few metres. Of the ten kiters who were out today, all of them come ashore with white faces under bright red skin.

In the afternoon, I want to avoid the strongest winds, as do most of the kite schools. I head to Getares beach near Algeciras, just 15 kilometres upwind as the crow flies – and into the absolute calm. Back to Tarifa. From the last crest before that, the wind picks up again at mid 25 knots. You can’t understand Tarifa. You have to live it and love it.

So that’s what I do. The restaurants are excellent and offer everything your heart desires, from 1200g steak to vegan crispy pot. A calm day in Tarifa always means a storm at night. Good wine, plenty of bars and a few discos always make the morning grey far too early.

On the last day, the Levante says goodbye with a cosy and for the first time laminar 18 knots. Over 250 kiters paint a farewell picture ten kilometres long…

Home is where the wind is…