In Cantabria in northern Spain, the mountains rise directly out of the Atlantic Ocean to over 1,000 metres. On the nearby Picos de Europa, which are up to 2,400 metres high, there is still snow even in midsummer. The incredibly green land glows in the peculiar sunlight on the retina like Ahoy sherbet on the tongue. Endless blue skies and the sea add a pinch of Tiegerbalm under and over.
The Embalse de Ebro lies just 50 kilometres from the coast at an altitude of 800 metres in a completely different deserted land. The ancient houses are made of stone. There are pictures of two metres of snow on the only village street. Even now, at the height of summer, the thermometer is only a pleasant 17°C after 42°C in Bilbao – from below.
On the surrounding mountains, dozens of wind turbines paint the magical picture of a thermally active kite spot. The wind usually comes from the north over the mountains, which are covered in low-hanging clouds. Both kitespots are located at the most thermally active eastern end of Lake Ebro. In Corconte there is a small kite centre www.ebrokite.com with very helpful people. The spot here is on the lee side of the mountains and is more suitable for windsurfers due to the strong offshore gusts.
A few kilometres further to the south-east of Lake Ebro is the deserted hamlet of Cabañas. Coming from the north, turn right immediately after the only bar and then take the first dirt track on the right. According to the barman, you can ignore the “privado” sign. Be sure to close the gate again, we kite here among horses!
The kitespot is the purest porn panorama. Endless sky, mountains with the last patches of snow, wildflowers and a meadow that slowly merges into the lake. The only danger: a power line to the east, please keep 200 metres away! A few spiky things behind the pasture, and horse droppings on them. Nothing else. The standing area in the onshore north wind is at least 100 metres wide and the ground is soft.
Even when the school has a full class, a maximum of 20 people are outside. Even when it’s cold, the thermals get going well: at a maximum of 17°C, the wind was blowing at up to 24 knots in the centre. However, according to the super nice locals, it is quite fickle and a bit stubborn when it’s cold. I can confirm that. I had anything between 8 and 27 knots within five hours here. Above 20 degrees it should blow much more consistently. The forecast from Windy and Windfinder is pretty accurate, but you can add four knots.
In the standing area, the water is as smooth as glass. Small kickers break over a small sandbank and are easy to use. Further out, the wind creates nice ramps up to 50 cm high. There is even a small, mirror-smooth puddle for cumbuco hardcore tricksters directly behind the beach, only completely free of bumps.
The horses look after us kiters. The wind whistles silently in our ears. The wildflowers glow in the sun. My paradise.
Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.