Flying high in the Fiji sky

3.3 k
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A big fire is burning on the beach. We have cleared half a square kilometre of the island’s primeval forest of undergrowth. A few fence posts may also have been involved. Coconuts exploding in the fire are nice jokes for existential pyromaniacs. From the laptop comes “Ring of Fire” and “Fire Water Burn”. The beer is cool and the stars shine brighter than anywhere else in the world.

The ferry to Vanua Levu on Thursday has also been cancelled. The last four days here have been wonderful. I’m winning more and more beer at poker. Nice new people are arriving. I’m super senior with 16 days. Travelling? I’m still travelling. In my head and on the water. (more…)

The last days on Nananu-i-Ra

Post
#105

0310

2007

Wed

23:10

day #

117

3.2 k
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I was lucky with the reef. On the second day of his holiday, an Australian caught his wife’s kite 5m from the beach. Result: 6cm long and 2cm deep coral cut in his foot. After half a litre of blood loss, it is clear: stitches are needed. Which means a week’s break from kiting until the evening. Luckily he’s only here for another six days :-)

I go out again in the afternoon for a downwinder with the boat. The wind is blowing at speeds of over 50 km/h. Metre-high waves crash over the boat. Sotos proves to me that even with the latest kites the depower can sometimes be too little. It pulls him over 1km almost into the reef. Meanwhile, I count the coral cuts in my shorts in the boat. (more…)

The first cut is the deepest

Post
#104

0110

2007

Mon

13:53

day #

115

3.7 k
views

I’m sitting on the beach. My coral cuts are healing slowly but steadily. Yesterday I had quite a headache and thick feet. I’ll probably get round the blood poisoning anyway. The wind is blowing at up to 45 km/h, everyone is out windsurfing and kitesurfing. A 60-year-old is doing 10-metre jumps with his kite. I feel infinitely small.

On the beach I listen to Rod Stewart, The first cut is the deepest and Coral, the invisible invasion. Some divers have taken some really good pictures out on the reef and E6, which I’ll post today. They said that the sharks here were only very small and harmless. Even if they were, I won’t be swimming across the open sea to Dolphin Island. (more…)

Kitesurfen Part 3: Hit the reef, Jack!

Post
#103

2909

2007

Sat

16:26

day #

113

3.8 k
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With the help of the esteemed kitesurfing community on oase.com (thanks, guys!) and a few items from the Safari Lodge, I’m able to fix my broken line the next morning. Warren offers me the chance to try out a new 12 Eclipse kite. I don’t say no. Around 11 a.m. we head two kilometres out to sea for a downwinder.

I swim away from the boat, the kite is nice and stable on the edge. The hybrid kite goes up like Reinhold Messner on Extasy. Even at low speed and with the kite flying relatively high, I’m off to windward. 30 degrees upwind just makes me grin. Kitesurfing has come a long way in four years. (more…)

Kitesurfing in Fiji gone bad

Post
#102

2809

2007

Fri

21:40

day #

112

4.5 k
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I don’t even need the alarm clock to wake up in time for the six o’clock tide. The wind is already blowing, but not enough for kitesurfing yet. Another three hours’ sleep, then it’s back to kitesurfing in Fiji. At ten o’clock we take the boat out again to the safe kitesurfing spot at the Sandbar, 2 kilometres from Nananu-i-Ra.

The wind was already strong on Nananu-i-Ra, and at Sandbar the wind is blowing at 30-40kmh. Strong gusts make kitesurfing even more difficult. An absolute killer for my 12 nitro with 30% depower. At least I know that before I go out kitesurfing. It’s always a bad omen when you can barely keep contact with the ground on land. (more…)

Kiteboarding in Fiji

Post
#101

2709

2007

Thu

21:39

day #

111

10 k
views

I’ve been waiting a long time for this: kiteboarding in Fiji. The wind finally arrives. It’s been building up all morning. I knew it would be good because my heart had been pounding all morning. After 5 weeks without kiteboarding in Fiji, we finally get going today. The clouds are gone, the wind is there.

After lunch, we take the boat out to a sandbank off Ellington Wharf. At low tide, there’s no kiteboarding on Nananu-i-Ra either: like everywhere else on Fiji, the sharp coral is too close to the surface. The wind blows on the sandbank, my wind, exactly my strength. (more…)

Constant rain and no wind

Post
#100

2609

2007

Wed

11:51

day #

110

3.5 k
views

Everyone has been waiting increasingly desperately for wind for three days. It keeps raining cats and dogs. We’re not killing time, but black and white striped mosquitoes that leave wonderfully infectious pimple-like giant bumps if you’re too slow. Zack. Two more. 107 today.

We watch too many DVDs, albeit good ones, from the Safari Lodge’s extensive collection. My imported beer supply is drastically depleted, and no cigarette helps against the hordes of mosquitoes. We drink kava, eat, chat and wait for the wind. Reading: The Kite Runner. (more…)

Nananu-i-Ra, Fiji

Post
#99

2209

2007

Sat

19:44

day #

106

4 k
views

Mit dem Bus geht’s im tropischen Dauerregen weiter auf die Nordseite von Viti Levu. Der Kings Highway wird nach 50 km ein einspuriger Feldweg. Seekrank auf Land, einmalig. Nach vier Stunden werde ich in Ellington abgesetzt. Endlich wieder Sonne.

Warren, der Besitzer der Safari Lodge auf Nananu-i-Ra kommt, und mit dem Boot fahren wir raus auf eine Sandbank. Dort warten ein paar Schweizer und ein Engländer. Im Sonnenuntergang darf jeder mal eine Runde Wakeboarden hinter dem Boot. Riesen Spaß vor großer Kulisse. Den griechischen Kitelehrer lässt’s so heftig auf Ohr, dass er danach durch selbiges pfeifen kann. (more…)

Navua River & lost souls in Suva

Post
#98

2009

2007

Thu

23:56

day #

104

3.3 k
views

I go on my first “tourist” tour. A truck picks me up in the morning and we head west again on Kings Road. Our destination is the Navua River near Pacific Harbour. Another 15 Germans arrive on a bus from the west. I don’t feel like speaking German at all. The driver does me a favour and introduces me as Francis from England. I leave out my title and surname, as Sir and Drake would be a bit over the top.

A motorised banana boat takes us a good hour from the mouth of the Navua River inland. The mountains get higher and higher while it rains continuously. Despite it being 25 degrees, the wind would make it quite cold, so for the first time I’m glad of my rain jacket. (more…)

Raintreelodge, Waterfalls & Suva

Post
#97

1909

2007

Wed

23:42

day #

103

3 k
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Yesterday was a wonderful day until the evening. Father Christmas drops me off at the Raintree Lodge above Suva. There are beautiful little lakes with water lilies between the buildings, surrounded by rainforest. The birds chirp in all directions and from all directions.

Nevertheless, Raintree Lodge is rubbish. Mouldy beds, cramped rooms. Food expensive and poor. Filthy bathrooms, toilets, green pool. Everything abandoned, staff unmotivated. Every little extra costs a lot. The absolute downfall was an ethno-techno-accompanied “local” dance performance, almost unbeatable in terms of sadness. (more…)

Santa Claus is coming to Fiji

Post
#96

1809

2007

Tue

10:42

day #

102

3.5 k
views

The last night at Fiji Beach House comes to a quiet end. The house is empty, the good mates have moved on. I was greeted by strong winds in the afternoon. Fittingly at low tide, 20cm of water over the reef. Unkitebar. My curse continues.

A few Australians drive to Suva. I check in. Had no idea who I was travelling with. Suddenly we stop at a school. The boot of the van is full of balls. Children are streaming in. The white-and-blue-striped Father Christmas Peter Cole and his red-faced colleague Bubbles make children’s hearts light up. (more…)

Snorkelling, sunshine & sand dunes

Post
#95

1609

2007

Sun

20:35

day #

100

3.7 k
views

After a few days, we’re finally going snorkelling again. We take the boat out onto the reef on the Coral Coast. Visibility is up to 20 metres with a moderate current. Blue starfish, parrotfish, clownfish and hundreds of others that I don’t recognise. If you haven’t snorkelled in Fiji, you don’t know what colours are.

We dive down to 5 metres along a small reef wall. At the very bottom there are some killer clams up to half a metre long. I want to tease them a bit, but wiggling the water isn’t enough to get them to close up. I still need my hand, so no shell flaps. (more…)

Foreign Legion Fiji

Post
#94

1409

2007

Fri

19:43

day #

4.5 k
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David, the nice Irishman from the first jungle trip, had emailed. Had arranged another jungle trip, not offered anywhere publicly, only found out by chance from a villager. I agree immediately. Early in the morning we take the bus to Pacific Harbour, Art Village. Nice colonial ensemble.

I meet David around 11 and we go for a bite to eat. David tells me about his other hotels. Apparently everything is empty. It’s been a year since the last coup in Fiji, but the tourists are still missing. I check out the Uprising, a new backpacker resort in Pacific Harbour. Empty. (more…)

The globetrotting blues

Post
#93

1209

2007

Wed

20:13

day #

3.7 k
views

I’ve got the third world travelling blues. Not a melodic one, more one with a down-tuned fourth. I’m a soaked sponge, and not because of five days of constant rain. Everything is moving at breakneck speed. After the USA, I thought it was because I was travelling too fast. But it wasn’t. The world goes by even faster when you stand still.

I thought long and hard about whether I should write something about it. It’s not a crematorium blog. I’m putting it online now because I think that a journey without a low point can’t deliver any high points. So I guess that’s part of it. (more…)

Welcome to the jungle!

Post
#92

0909

2007

Sun

14:24

day #

3.4 k
views

Jiunta, a guide from the nearby village, leads us into the middle of the jungle. Only two people. Deserted jungle. We walk along dirt tracks through a small village to the edge of the forest. I’ve forgotten all my clothes, the sun is stinging. After the first muddy patch, my shoes don’t want to accompany me either, so I go to sunbathe in the meadow. Barefoot in the jungle.

The trail leads uphill through mud, mosquito battlefields and bamboo forests along a river. The Manoa Trail on Oahu was nice, but only this one is really sugar-free. Jiunta is always showing us new plants for getting drunk on fish, treating diarrhoea, stopping bleeding and much more. (more…)

Fiji Beach House, Viti Levu / Coral Coast

Post
#91

0709

2007

Fri

20:02

day #

4.5 k
views

Am nächsten Nachmittag kommt glatt mal etwas Wind auf in Nadi. Footballspieler starten mir den Kite, ich zieh zwei Bahnen. Für Aufkanten reicht der Wind nicht. Ich lauf am Strand zurück und etwas weiter, gehe wieder ins Wasser. Der Wind hört schlagartig komplett auf, Drachen fällt mitten in eine Seegraswiese. Den Tang aus den verhedderten Leinen rauszuzupfen dauert nur eine Stunde. Der Fluch hält an.

Am Abend lern ich noch ne nette Australierin kennen, mit der ich deutlich zulange und zuviel am Strand versumpfe, wie mir mein Schädel am nächsten Morgen rhythmisch pochend mitteilt. Mit dem Taxi geht’s zum Busbahnhof Nadi und dann weiter für 10 FJ$ über 150km an die Südküste zum Fiji Beach House. (more…)

Off to Fiji!

Post
#90

0609

2007

Thu

16:22

day #

3.6 k
views

Early the next morning, it’s off to Fiji. Tidy up the flat, make the princess bed, do the last wash. That’s fine, I only paid half of what others would have charged. The shuttle arrives on time and takes me to the airport. Feel like I’ve been taken for a ride by the wind again. As soon as I leave, it blows like crazy.

Air Pacific doesn’t even ask for the extra $20 for kite luggage. The plane is half empty, I have a whole bench to myself. After three hours there’s a stopover on the Christmas Islands. The terminal is probably the smallest in the world. The only reason for landing large jets is that the smaller ones would run out of fuel on the way. (more…)

Open Road

Post
#89

0609

2007

Thu

16:16

day #

7004

4.3 k
views

Open Road is a “thank you” to all the people who helped me on my trip, to hosts and friends. The best of almost 3000 pictures on the road across the whole USA. Optimized and arranged in one big poster for a 300 dpi print in size 89/111cm (35/43 inches). You find the previews on the right (small) and on the bottom of this page (medium).

Everybody I met on my trip received an email, containing a shared folder link on xdrive.com. You’ll have to get registered to download it. Fast & simple, and after that you got you own free 5GB harddrive on the internet. (more…)

Kitesurfing in Hawaii at last

Post
#88

0309

2007

Mon

22:16

day #

4.5 k
views

Another windless day passes. I’m working on a thank-you poster for all my hosts. The house and me, alone. I head to the beach again in the evening. For free, as expected. At a good Mexican restaurant, I treat myself to a club, firm and liquid. Back home again. My surfing in Hawaii has so far only taken place on the Internet. Desolate kite lulls me into a restless sleep.

The next morning I am woken by the unfamiliar sound of moving leaves. Only briefly, then it’s over. I fall asleep again. Shortly before midday it’s clear: there’s finally wind today. Not much, just enough. Once more than the forecast, so far it’s always been 5 miles less in Kailua. My last day in Hawaii. Kitesurfing at last. (more…)

Waiting for wind in Windward Oahu

Post
#87

3108

2007

Fri

20:05

day #

3.8 k
views

My new home is just 2 kilometres from a large army base. The huge Galaxy transport planes come in every five minutes. They are flanked by small security Cessnas or Chinook helicopters. That’s what I call fear in your own country. You can’t blame the soldiers. It wouldn’t be the first time here that a president has had 2,000 soldiers barbecued for a reason for war.

Despite the proximity to the base, it’s wonderfully quiet here. But compared to Waikiki, even a jackhammer is quiet. I check the wind on the other side of the bay on the internet and after 11 weeks of almost no kitesurfing, I finally head to the Mecca of kitesurfing on Oahu, Kailua. (more…)

North Shore & relocation to Kailua

Post
#86

2908

2007

Wed

20:49

day #

3.4 k
views

After one last reasonably unhealthy and uneventful night, I get a hire car the next morning with Ingmar, another German exchange student. My drunken English Springbreak kids have stolen my towel. I quickly pack up the rest and throw everything in the car. Off we go.

Half an hour later, we arrive in Kailua on the other side of Hawaii. The region goes by the name of “Windward”. There’s no sign of it today. It’s raining. No matter. The main thing is to get away from Honolulu. My room looked good on the internet. In reality, the house is an absolute dream. Hammock on the large terrace. Five minutes’ walk to the beach. Large bathroom. Huge living room and kitchen. (more…)

No nolulu, no cry.

Post
#85

2808

2007

Tue

18:06

day #

3.2 k
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The next few days are all the same. Get up, have breakfast, somehow pass the day until the evening and party until you drop again that night. There are cultural highlights such as “Waterfall” (everyone in a group of 20 has to drink until the person in front stops) and boozy football on the beach at night. I can’t remember any names. Nothing happens. I work a lot and it’s easy.

On Monday, I take the bus to the biggest shopping centre in Hawaii, Ala Moana. Unbelievable. Higher luxury density than on 5th Avenue New York. The top 50 designers in a never-ending row. I can’t find a pair of normal walking shoes anywhere, and a naughty girl stole my flip-flops the night before. (more…)

Crusade to senselessness

Post
#84

2608

2007

Sun

3:02

day #

3.6 k
views

The days come and go. Nothing and nobody to remember. Nothing happens. The hostel is full of Germans who have met here to start a semester abroad in Hawaii. I drive around Oahu with some of them for a day in a hire car. We are offered a Mustang convertible because, once again, we don’t have the right small car. Unfortunately it’s suitable for four, there are five of us. Licked the bonnet for nothing. I feel sick from the previous evening. An American soldier had talked to me for too long on the beach about Bush and Iraq.

Oahu is a small world, smaller than I thought. Beautiful beaches on the Northshore, some snorkelling. We lose our way on the way to the beach from “Lost”. (more…)

Welcome to Springbreak Central Honolulu!

Post
#83

2408

2007

Fri

15:36

day #

71.4 k
views

To be a bit snobbish: The flight to Hawaii with American Airlines was one of the most miserable of my life. Lousy films, no food within 5 hours, hardly anything to drink, no newspapers, musty seats. Never mind. I’m in Hawaii now. I take the shuttle to the Waikiki Beachside Hostel in the south of Honolulu. springbreak Central is 200 metres from the beach. Around 200 world travellers turn the hostel into a madhouse of excess.

The hostel offers caged accommodation with weekly cleaning for $25 a day. Morning feeding is included, each chicken provides its own grain in the evening. Eight chickens share their own kitchen, bathroom and, importantly, TV. There is free WiFi and 3 1.5 metre plasma screens in the lobby. My roommates are from England, very British. Lobster red and drunk as a skunk by eight o’clock. (more…)

Good Bye, Un-ited States of America!

Post
#82

2208

2007

Wed

13:38

day #