Abel Tasman Coastal Walk

2.8 k
views

Abel Tasman National Park is New Zealand’s smallest but most visited of the 14 national parks. The Abel Tasman Coastal Walk is one of the Great Walks and runs for 53 kilometres from Marahau to Wainui Bay. It mostly runs along the coastline at different altitudes. Some branches lead to remote bays or into the interior of the national park.

It usually takes three to five days to complete this track. You can spend the night either in DOC huts or on campsites. Frank drives me by car to the starting point in Marahau – and there’s no turning back. I spend the first night in the hut in Bark Bay, with 23 kilometres ahead of me today. The first day is exhausting and rainy. It’s unusual to hike alone. (more…)

Glacier Extinction In New Zealand

Post
#531

1102

2013

Mon

23:44

day #

2075

2.7 k
views

In the German news you only ever hear that the New Zealand glaciers are some of the few glaciers in the world that are still growing. This is generally true, but only rarely. We arrive in Franz Josef late in the evening and check into the YHA. We have booked a full-day trip on the Fox Glacier for the next day.

Early in the morning we take the bus to the glacier break. You can’t see the Fox Glacier. Within a year, the glacier has retreated a whole 400 metres around the corner. I don’t dare ask how much it has retreated since my last visit five years ago. The first thing the guide jokes about is that he will soon need a new job. (more…)

Lake Wanaka & Rob Roy Track

Post
#530

0602

2013

Wed

23:46

day #

2070

3.5 k
views

Lake Wanaka is a kitesurfing hotspot on the South Island. Directly south of Mt Aspiring National Park, the lack of wind is bearable. My cold persists, as does the urge to move. We drive 50 km north along gravel roads full of flocks of sheep to the last car park in the national park.

The Rob Roy Track leads steeply uphill in the gorge of a glacial river. Last time I had to miss out here with Georg and Arnulf – my right knee was pretty sore from the Abel Tasman Track. This time the ascent takes a long time via some rock slides, but it’s doable. Once at the top, my lungs stop stinging. Dozens of waterfalls, dandelions and the white edge of the glacier sting my eyes. (more…)

Mount Cook & Buscot Station

Post
#529

0502

2013

Tue

5:48

day #

2069

2.8 k
views

Thunder rolls from the Sefton Glacier over Mount Cook Village. We see a large avalanche at 2300 metres. After almost two weeks of sunshine and temperatures of over 30° in New Zealand, it’s no wonder. In the late afternoon, another avalanche starts, but we only hear it.

Every trip is different. I’ve already been to Mount Cook, but I’ve never seen it. The Hooker Valley Track leads over large suspension bridges and raging glacial rivers to Hooker Lake in front of Mount Cook. It’s great weather again today. Blue glacier ice floats in the white water. A cold wind blows off the glacier, clouds gather in the late afternoon. (more…)

Heaven Lies Before Paradise!

Post
#528

0202

2013

Sat

23:49

day #

2066

3.2 k
views

“Paradise – 37 km”, says the sign behind Glenorchy quite modestly. A few kilometres of dirt road through incredibly beautiful farmland before Mount Aspiring National Park and you’re there. First, of course, you have to cross the Jordan River. No problem, at this time of year the riverbed that runs across the track is dry.

The next two river crossings are also doable without a jeep. But the fourth, with a good 30 cm of water and large stones, shows Tutukaka his limits. This paradise is obviously only open to four-wheel drive vehicles. A great advertising idea for BMW, but certainly a bitter disappointment for religious extremists of all colours due to the inconvenience they have had to endure so far. (more…)

Hiking @ Routeburn Track

Post
#527

0102

2013

Fri

23:18

day #

2065

2.8 k
views

What the Hajj to Mecca is to Muslims, the Hatsch on one of New Zealand’s ten Great Walks is to hikers. The enthusiasm of some travellers sometimes takes on religious traits: glowing eyes, catatonic drooling or sex with hiking socks worn for five days.

Today we are travelling on the Routeburn Track, one of New Zealand’s Ten Great Walks. The Routeburn Track is only 32 kilometres long, but crosses a very long mountain range. The journey by car from one end of the Routeburn Track to the other is over 350 kilometres. The bus costs just under $200, it takes at least a day and a half to stop, and we don’t want to double up. (more…)

The Queenstown Pub Crawl

Post
#526

3001

2013

Wed

7:17

day #

2063

2.6 k
views

None of us have ever been to a pub crawl. We were always more than suspicious of pub crawls. What was there to experience? People who think that life can’t possibly consist of anything more than calling for the next beer. But the truth is even worse…

I’m happy, because it’s always best to make fun of your own mistakes. After two months of travelling pretty much solo in pairs and often through the loneliest parts of New Zealand without much socialising, I seriously thought it was a good idea to take up this offer: Big Night Out Queenstown: The Pub Crawl. (more…)

Fjordland Trecking

Post
#525

2701

2013

Sun

23:06

day #

2060

2.7 k
views

Auf dem Weg von Invercargill nach Te Anau machen wir einen kleinen Abstecher ins südliche Fjordland. Über die wunderbar staubige Borland Road kann man bis zu 50 km an den Südarm des Lake Manapouri fahren. Weiter ins Fjordland kommt man nirgends mit dem Auto.

Nach 30 km grober Schotterpiste steigen wir aus und über einen steilen Pfad rauf auf die Mount Burns Tops. Kristallklare Bergseen leuchten zwischen goldenem Tussockgras in strahlender Sonne. Seit Tagen herrscht endlich der Sommer in Neuseeland. Sogar hier in den Fjords mit bis zu 7 m Regen im Jahr haben wir nur Kaiserwetter. Bei Temperaturen um die 30° wird jede kleine Bergwanderung zum schweisstreibenden Extremsport. (more…)

Oamaru, Dunedin & Catlins

Post
#524

2301

2013

Wed

23:56

day #

2056

2.5 k
views

Oamaru is famous for its penguin colonies. However, as they no longer feel the need for forced prostitution, they are decimating. The only blue penguin we see committed suicide in the grass next to the harbour. We refuse to disturb the return of the live penguins from the sea in the evening for moral reasons.

Dunedin is the oldest city in New Zealand, although at least three are in contention for this title. In the black and white stone buildings, which are up to 200 years old, one shop after another is closing down. 50% vacancy is supplemented by 25% galleries and second-hand shops. The rest seems to consist of empty pubs and restaurants. (more…)

Over The Canterbury Plains

Post
#523

2001

2013

Sun

23:33

day #

2053

2.5 k
views

The sun rises hours after our departure from Christchurch. In the middle of the Canterbury Plains, New Zealand’s oldest farmland, we help inflate the colourful envelope of a hot air balloon. Two motorised fans and the burner make a hell of a racket. Then everything happens quickly. We climb into the basket and slowly rise into the air in silence.

Grisu hisses from time to time. The sun rises and casts long shadows behind the rows of trees. The New Zealand Alps rise up in the distance. We are lucky. According to the captain, this is the best day for a long time. For us, it’s by far the best visibility in the last six weeks. A sheep bleats. A cow complains. A hare flees from our shadow. Silence. (more…)

Christchurch’s Night Lights

Post
#522

1801

2013

Fri

22:02

day #

2051

2.8 k
views

This is really creepy. Achterdorm in the wonderful old Victorian Rolleston House in the centre of Christchurch. Even two years after the big quake, everything around it is still broken or just rubble and ashes. A laptop LCD glows in every bed. Apart from the typing, everything is as quiet as a mouse. Nobody is talking. Presumably everyone is writing about homesickness for home.

I’m the web designer here! I’m the first and the last to type at night! But I feel great when I’m not typing. It’s really incredible how the travelling world has changed in just five years. Everyone is rushing from hotspot to hotspot, and the free ones are becoming increasingly rare. Travelling in between has become a necessary evil to decorate the Facebook wall with the same pictures over and over again. (more…)

Our Little Farm @ Arthurs Pass

Post
#521

1501

2013

Tue

23:21

day #

2048

2.9 k
views

Greymouth was simply bland to grey. It continued to piss until we reached Arthur’s Pass. The former definition of a New Zealand summer was: “When the breaks between the rain get longer”. In the meantime, even the New Zealand media have labelled this summer with all its floods as “extremely pissy”.

We simply can’t cope with the temporary lack of rain, so we quickly hike to Devil’s Punchhole. In the veil of the falls, summer feels like summer again. Without rain, we are starting to have real problems with our leisure activities. Out of sheer frustration, we take the piss out of Keas. Priceless fun, but probably also the source of their aggression towards all inorganic soft parts. (more…)

The Mermaid

Post
#520

1201

2013

Sat

23:08

day #

2045

3.2 k
views

I rode my first mermaid today! Hanmer Springs is a good way off the beaten track in the centre of New Zealand’s South Island. The way there leads along lonely roads past abandoned farms through golden hills. In Hanmer there is an overpriced thermal spa, a few hotels, pubs and the Dutch hostel owner Tristan.

After almost two weeks without a suitable wind, I’m completely under-kitted. The wind forecast in Kaikoura wasn’t right either. Instead of good wind, there was just a tornado, which put a second roof on the church. I studied the maps, but the lake that hostel owner Tristan was telling me about was so far off the beaten track that I couldn’t possibly find it. (more…)

Blenheim And Kaikoura

Post
#519

1101

2013

Fri

23:04

day #

2044

2.5 k
views

The spiders, the kiwi winemakers! Blenheim is New Zealand’s most famous wine-growing region. The fame has gone to their heads. You can’t buy anything for less than $20 in the wine cellars, and you can only get plonk wine from $10 in the supermarket. Our wine tasting is limited to supermarket wine. Australian wine wins hands down.

Windfinder gives good winds for Kaikoura, 130 kilometres to the south. We race over golden hills to the east and along the bright blue sea – directly into a thick rain storm. Shortly after a tornado hits Kaikoura, the sun shines again – in absolute calm. (more…)

Queen Charlotte Track

Post
#518

0801

2013

Tue

23:46

day #

2041

3.8 k
views

The Marlborough Sounds are located in the north of New Zealand’s South Island. Here, land and sea merge seamlessly into one another: At first, the land predominates with its steep green forested mountains. Then the inlets become wider and bluer. Schools of dolphins hunt, splashing loudly off the last islands in the Cook Straight. Then there is only the sea.

The water taxi drops us off on historic ground. Ship Cove lies quite far out in the sounds. Captain Cook camped here for many weeks on several voyages from 1774. The Maoris also regarded the site as an important stop on their crossing of the dangerous strait. For us today, Ship Cove is the start of the longest hike we have both ever done. (more…)

Windy @ Wellington

Post
#517

0301

2013

Thu

22:30

day #

2036

2.5 k
views

Strong winds transform the wheat fields on the way from Wanganui to Wellington into billowing green seas. Shortly before Wellington we stop in Wakanae. The wind is weaker, but some kiters are already out in 15 knot full onshore waves over a metre high. The old year ends well with a few clean full washes.

We have an appointment with other travellers at YHA Wellington. Backpacker factory, but clean, large and well equipped. A four-course meal is a good basis for the New Year’s Eve feast, during which I lose Uli, don’t get to see any fireworks because of the storm and end up in bed at half past one, very tired from travelling. (more…)

Mount Taranaki

Post
#516

3012

2012

Sun

23:51

day #

2032

2.8 k
views

I apologise to everyone who wished me a happy new year. I had to turn it down at first. Two days before New Year’s Eve, we go shopping in New Plymouth for the ascent of New Zealand’s second highest volcano, Mount Taranaki. We borrowed the necessary ice axes and crampons for the steep summit, which was still covered in snow, and set off in the rain.

The ascent to the summit at 2,550 m begins at the North Egmont DOC Visitor Centre. Our first destination for the day is at an altitude of 1,500 metres. We reach the Taranaki Alpine Club’s Tahurangi Hut after just under two hours and 600 metres in altitude, completely soaked through with more than 15 kg of luggage each for the two days on the mountain. Visibility is close to zero and the wind is blowing strongly. (more…)

Whanganui River

Post
#515

2712

2012

Thu

23:29

day #

2029

2.7 k
views

The Whanganui River is the most remote of all New Zealand’s national parks. It doesn’t even have a name, the signs just say “National Park”. The DOC campsite Whakohoro lies in the middle of it, behind 42 kilometres of gravel road to the next village. In between there are only sheep, rainforest and “No mobile coverage” warning signs.

We are at the end of the most beautiful end of the world. The meadow is richly garnished with sheep, horse, goose and rabbit dung – offering much more variety than Hobbiton. Stepping in it barefoot is unavoidable, but not too bad. The weather forecast is finally right today. It rains heavily all day, followed by sunshine every half hour. (more…)

Merry Christmas Kite!

Post
#514

2512

2012

Tue

21:26

day #

2027

2.5 k
views

12 days in the doldrums and some dream spots not kited as a result can be damn hard. But today is Christmas, and my wish comes true: the tail of a cyclone is pushing a lot of wind onto Lake Taupo. It’s blowing from the north-east at a nice 15-30 knots. The only kiteable beach in the wide area is 5 kilometres south of Taupo on the eastern shore.

The beach is full of people. But because of the shape of the bay, it is the only safe launch zone, even for me. Beyond a 200 metre long headland there are only 20 kilometres of open sea with uninhabitable and uninhabited coasts to the east and west. The 13er is far too big, the 9er a little too small in places. Only on the second start do I catch a good gust that takes me away from the beach. (more…)

Christmas in Taupo

Post
#513

2412

2012

Mon

10:52

day #

2026

2.4 k
views

In the middle of the high season in 2012, New Zealand is pretty empty. You practically never have to pre-book hostels, they are rarely full. Instead, they treat themselves to masses of globetrotting day labourers. The work that once made a travel slave rotate is now comfortably shared by four young travellers. Some hostels accommodate more helpers than paying guests. The towns are also deserted, restaurants and pubs deserted.

There seem to be only two types of traveller left. One type takes an indefinite break after school before starting work, lasting a year or more. The other type arrives at the hostel late on Christmas Eve, then spends 3 hours organising the equipment worthy of a Mars expedition in the room and climbs Tongariro the next morning after 4 hours of sleep. (more…)

Rockin Rotorua

Post
#512

2312

2012

Sun

10:01

day #

2025

2.7 k
views

Rotorua is the volcanic centre of New Zealand. It lies in the centre of the fissure that stretches from White Island in the north to Mount Taranaki in the east of the North Island. We walk through a Maori settlement right by the lake. Nobody needs heating or a cooker here. Small geysers steam in the front gardens.

Geysers, mud pools and hot sulphur springs have been attracting travellers from all over the world for over 150 years. Even today, steam and the omnipresent smell of sulphur propel Rotorua into third place alongside Auckland and Queenstown as one of the most popular tourist destinations. Greepeace awards medals of honour for farting, as this improves the smell locally to a greater or lesser extent. (more…)

75$ Sheep Poo

Post
#511

2012

Thu

22:44

day #

2022

2.6 k
views

Mea culpa. I’m still German, and in the year seven after “Geiz ist geil” we’re all finally the new Scotsmen of Europe thanks to Saturn. Lederhosen and laptops are a thing of the past; after the end of the world tomorrow, it’s all plaid skirts and energy-saving Ipads. So I can joke one last time about the lunacy of New Zealand pricing.

500 for a 4-hour ferry? Fine! 13$ for a muesli? Exemplary! 15$ for a “bag horsepoo” offered for sale in writing next to the road? Fertilises well according to Uli, great! 45 for old books with no historical value? Astrein! 50$ for geyser vultures? Awesome! But what we’re seeing today is the bottom of the barrel between megalomania and unquestioning obedience. (more…)

Rain And Reggae In Raglan

Post
#510

1912

2012

Wed

23:25

day #

2021

2.7 k
views

Raglan is the surfing capital of New Zealand. Located just two hours south of Auckland, it is a completely different world. Our accommodation is an old railway carriage in the eco-backpacker camp at www.solscape.co.nz. Situated on the slopes of the extinct volcano Mount Karioi, it overlooks the surf beach.

The legendary surfer film “Endless Summer” was shot here sometime in the 1960s. However, nobody here has seen it, and the local branch of United Video doesn’t have it on offer either. First evening, reggae party in the only pub in the village. Everyone has bleached blonde curls, blue eyes, flip-flops and board shorts. Even Smurfs come in more varieties. (more…)

Lost In The Realm Of The Kauri Giants

Post
#509

1512

2012

Sat

11:02

day #

2017

2.4 k
views

Tane Mahuta split apart heaven and earth, creating space for all life. The Maoris worship the presumably 2000 year old largest of all kauri trees, in front of which we now stand marvelling in Waipoua Forest, as the creator of all life. The legends of the Maori are elemental epics: plausible to self-evident, clear and imaginative. Our fairy tales, on the other hand, are the purest penny dreadfuls.

I love this simple directness. It is also evident in many other things in New Zealand: We: Franz Josef Strauss Airport. Kiwi: Auckland International Airport. Us: Hildegard von Bingen Avenue. Kiwi: Ocean View Road. Us: Are you insured? Kiwi: No worries, I help ya. (more…)

Carwash, Northland & A Surferparty

Post
#508

1312

2012

Thu

21:28

day #

2015