The Schnatermann session

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They still exist, even after 20 years of kiting. The little unexpected surprises. Surprise is an understatement. I’ve already visited Schnatermann, the nearest kitespot to Rostock, twice. Once I was too flat after a wave session in Markgrafenheide. The second time, the wind was too light even for fish and 13m².

Today the forecast was right. Fortunately, the predicted 38-knot peak didn’t materialise. I’m more than happy with 16 to 26 knots, which isn’t a bit of a bump but still fluctuates a lot. I find my favourite spot in Rostock under 10m² and mostly royal blue late summer skies. (more…)

Saal

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#716

0409

2020

Fri

20:26

day #

4837

828
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The kite spot in Saal offers flat water and a large meadow for setting up and launching. Two kite schools hire out equipment on site and offer the only dry shelter even in shitty weather, as well as hot drinks and burgers. Parking costs €5 per day including toilet use. You can also camp here.

The entrance is via a few small stones in a 20 metre wide bay between rushes on the Bodden. If you want to use foils with long masts, you have to go out at least 150 metres. It is a little difficult to get out of the bay in a south-westerly wind. There is a lot of training on the water. Getting through this belt can also be a bit tight at times. (more…)

Markgrafenheide

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#715

2308

2020

Sun

18:29

day #

4825

695
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Markgrafenheide is one of Rostock’s home spots. The journey from the city centre takes about 30 minutes by car. In Markgrafenheide you can only park centrally and for a fee. Many of the small residential streets are fire service access roads. Never park in the wild! There is a lot of towing.

The central car park is often full in summer. In addition, the kite beach is a nice 800m walk away at the northern end of the beach. You can also park at the beach resort in the far north – at a nice €1.50 per hour. Walk to the dog beach from approx. 350m. Kitesurfing is tolerated here according to the water police.

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Rügen – Thiessow

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#714

0107

2020

Wed

19:42

day #

4772

636
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Crossing Rügen can take an hour, depending on traffic. If you have your accommodation in the east in westerly winds, Thiessow, located at the end of a headland in the south-east, is a good alternative to avoid long island crossings.

You can park for €8 directly at the small campsite in front of Klein-Zicker, including toilet facilities. Or you can walk 250m to the Thiessow bathing car park, which costs a maximum of €5 per day. Pitches are set up on the meadow next to the campsite. There is also a small hire shop and school there, but no catering.
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Fear of death in the third typhoon

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#713

2912

2019

Sun

14:04

day #

4587

1.5 k
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I have seen a lot. I have experienced a lot. Today I’m just surviving. I’ve never been so scared of death in my life. The third typhoon hits Bulalacao on 25 December with full force and gusts of around 200 km/h. The roof of our emergency shelter is partially torn off. The roof of our emergency shelter is partially torn off. The Day After. Ground zero. Complete destruction.

A few weeks ago, my Liverpool kiter Buddy King George joked that I would be honoured with a third typhoon during my two months in the Philippines. I studied Windy in disbelief until just before Fiji. I found nothing. About a fortnight ago, a cyclone actually formed. First it was a tropical storm, then it became a typhoon. It hit Bulalacao with a category four out of five, making it the strongest typhoon in 50 years. (more…)

Christmas kite on Mindoro

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#712

2512

2019

Wed

2:03

day #

4583

712
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During my four days at Secret Kite Camp, the Coron tourist information centre is unable to book the ferry ticket back to Mindoro. In the evening, the last ship before Christmas is fully booked. That’s enough! I lie to the coastguard: I need urgent medicine from Mindoro. That throws me to the front of the multi-page waiting list. Sparkling clean patent leather shoes monitor the proper overloading of the ferry. there are 250 passengers on 146 regular seats.

After nine hours of waiting, I arrive in San Jose. I jump into one of the minivans, which are even more packed than usual just before Christmas. After another hour, I’m back in Bulalacao. The dogs are howling again at Felipa Lodge. Eight years after my first visit, the Filipinos still can’t hit a single note or beat on the same ancient Videoke machine. (more…)

Wikingair @ Secret Kite Camp

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#711

1912

2019

Thu

11:48

day #

4577

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My great-grandfather on my mother’s side was Danish. He brewed beer, somewhere in the south. I don’t know where. I don’t even know what his name was. I don’t speak a word of Danish. But the funny Danish Captain Kim speaks English. He invites me to spend four days preparing his Secret Kite Camp AmazingPhilippines.dk at the end of the world. I gratefully accept.

The two-hour crossing from Coron is an adventure. For me. Captain Kim calls the two-metre swell on his eight-metre speedboat “comfortable” from the second half onwards. The hard blows after high waves make me prefer to shoulder the laptop standing up in the waterproof bag. Out of my warm life hands. After two hours, quite well showered, we land in the Caribbean-turquoise shallow water channel between the islands of Nangalao and Secret Island. (more…)

King of Cuyo

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#710

1312

2019

Fri

15:37

day #

4571

668
views

The second typhoon costs us a whole week. Sunday evening, the Milagrosa finally leaves Iloilo. Everyone is overjoyed. Together with a Cuyo policeman from our last visit, we empty a few Red Horses on deck. He confirms all my prejudices about Cuyo. Up to six police officers have up to six incidents per 24-hour shift. To. To.

The red horses are the fuel for my master’s examination in seaworthiness. During the night, the wind picks up to 35 knots. With it comes the heaviest swell of my five crossings of the notorious Sulu Sea. The stable lateral position becomes very unstable. Sleeping is only possible – and not very much – on my back. I hum Tom Petty on the way down, Joe Cocker on the way up. Breakers up to five metres high fly over the bow and shake the hull of the 40-metre Milagrosa J5. (more…)

Easter bunny! Travel tips Philippines

Post
#709

0712

2019

Sat

6:27

day #

4565

663
views

Despite having plenty of travelling experience in the Philippines, it takes me a full eight days to cover the 150 km from Mindoro to Cuyo as the crow flies. Only four of these are due to the typhoon. It’s true that Cuyo is more difficult to reach than the hotspots. But when I read on Facebook how many destinations some travellers want to tick off in such a short time, I can only advise one thing: plan wisely![Travel tips Philippines]

I sit out Typhoon Tisoy alone for four days in San Jose. The ferry to Coron is stuck on the wrong side for at least another four days. Minivan back to Bulalacao via the mountain road that has just been cleared of half a metre of tree trunks. The next morning, a five-hour journey on the now very slow FastCat to Caticlan. (more…)

Typhoon Tisoy / Kamuri over Mindoro

Post
#708

0412

2019

Wed

6:52

day #

4562

582
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The PCA rightly fled early from the next typhoon. Although Typhoon Tisoy/Kamuri initially had much lower wind speeds than our last typhoon on Palawan at the beginning of November, it will cause much more damage. Its eye is currently crossing northern Mindoro with elemental forces.

Typhoon Tisoy / Kamuri gained quite a bit of energy before it made landfall in the eastern Philippines near Bicol on Sunday night with peak winds of almost 200 kilometres per hour. 70.000 people were evacuated before the typhoon arrived. Manila Airport and many other airports were completely closed for several days and all shipping traffic was suspended. (more…)

PKA Kite Championship Bulalacao

Post
#707

0212

2019

Mon

7:13

day #

4560

663
views

Bulalacao is the Philippine word for meteor. The name says it all. In the bay of the small village in the south of Mindoro, the wind really does shoot across the water like a meteor. The PKA organises the Philippine Kitesurfing Championships in Race, Hangtime, Freestyle and Foil here for three days. More than 50 international riders compete under really tough conditions.

Our small group with local kiter Buddy Cocoy and expat Jens arrives late at night from the ferry in a truck full of fun. The island is asleep. Early the next morning, the wind at Felipa Lodge near the harbour is very good. It picks up considerably by midday. The forecast for the next few days offers a stubborn all-you-can-eat menu of between 15 and 40 knots. She is to be proved right. (more…)

Odiongan, Tablas

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#706

2711

2019

Wed

8:03

day #

4555

586
views

Just four hours and a slightly delayed 2Go ferry later, Tablas is finally back to what I love about the Philippines: silence, peace and simple, pure life. My local kiter buddy Cocoy picks me up directly from the harbour in Odiongan and takes me to the nearby Hiland Resort right on the kiteable beach. I wander through the cockfights and night market, watch a basketball match and celebrate the opening of the island’s first Jollibee with the locals.

The small international local kite community from Tablas drops by the next morning. After 25 days of travelling with just one kiteable day, I’m incredibly happy about the mild 17 knots and 50 cm ramps in the bay of Odiongan. The Amihan finally gets going. With a northerly wind, it is fully onshore. If it turns to the north-east, which is typical of the Amihan, it is more stubborn due to the mountains in the hinterland – then it is better to head to the east coast, e.g. to Aglicay Beach Resort. (more…)

Boracry

Post
#705

2211

2019

Fri

23:45

day #

4550

1.8 k
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Seven years ago, Borawhy won the race as the best island nickname for New Year’s Eve. Today Boracry wins. I could cry when I see what we are doing to this beautiful little island. I have lost all hope that this can ever be changed. My only option after seven visits: Bye bye Boracay! Please stay away from this island!

Yes, Boracay is beautiful, the White Beach is unique. The palm trees are tropical, the jungle in the north is dense and the water at Ilig-Iligan Beach is a crystal-clear aquarium full of colourful fish. The selection of restaurants and bars is gigantic and the wind at Bulabog is usually very good for kitesurfing. But that’s about it. There is a lot that is extremely poor. (more…)

Mindoro’s Silence

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#704

1811

2019

Mon

8:47

day #

4546

519
views

Due to the lack of a bus, we end up in the same minivan to Bulalacao as on our last visit, but this time with “only” a discreet 14 passengers. The trikeros at the harbour unsuccessfully try their hand at price gouging. It’s raining again, and the driver refuses to drive us down the steep, slippery road to kitesurf-mindoro.com, probably with good reason. Only the gatekeeper with his motorbike can manage that, on two trips.

Bislig Beach was my favourite kitesurfing spot in the Philippines last time. In just three years, Kathrin has set up a chilled-out camp with safari tents, bungalows and great fusion cuisine. As the tents are not yet up, we get an upgrade to the panorama bungalow in the first row of the beach. Thank you very much! (more…)

The children of Cuyo

Post
#703

1511

2019

Fri

20:34

day #

4543

510
views

The first post-taifun crossing from Puerto Princesa to Cuyo is surprisingly mild. The captain of the “Blessed Sea Journey” is a real sparrow: after seeing his girlfriend shivering in full winter gear, he turns down the air conditioning in the icebox tourist class to such an extent that 17 Filipinos will probably die of heatstroke by the next morning. Mild waves rock us to sleep.

Some magical places make you cry when you leave. Cuyo does this even on arrival. Early the next morning, the landlady of Niki’s guesthouse greets me by name after almost a year. All the children wave. Every second one of them wants to fondle Steffi’s curls and take a photo to prove that her curls are completely unknown in the Philippines. (more…)

Stormy Banka Tour @ Port Barton

Post
#702

0911

2019

Sat

5:55

day #

4537

511
views

As the typhoon is blocking our further route to Coron, we drive three and a half hours south again by minivan. Shortly after Roxas, we change to a trike. It takes us an hour through the mist-shrouded rainforest mountains to the west side of Palawan to the small coastal town of Port Barton. At some point, the trike driver says “Oh oh, the road is in bad condition.”. An euphenism par excellence.

The road ends up being a single 15 cm deep muddy track with deep ruts and large puddles. Our driver rocks them all and gets a big tip. We get into our accommodation right on the beach and walk a few minutes over to the “centre”. Port Barton is the first place on this trip that really feels Filipino. Bankas in the bay, not too many and not too few people. Good cheap restaurants right under the palm trees on the cosy sandy beach slow us down nicely. (more…)

Taifun Slow Down @ Palawan

Post
#701

0711

2019

Thu

13:09

day #

4535

656
views

The most intense three months of work in 20 years of web design are 10,000 kilometres behind me. The same goes for the all-encompassing porn soundtrack from the Eching esoteric sauna at Kuwait airport. After a 28-hour journey, even the topics of conversation of the quartet of paragliding terrorists melt into nothingness in the five-hour speedvan from Puerto Princessa to El Nido.

Seven years ago, we were stuck in 40 cm of mud on a jungle track in the mountains on the more than one-day journey in the other direction by jeepney. Today it’s tarmac and dogs sleeping on it. I look out of the window through the heavy rain. Water buffaloes graze in rice paddies. Herons vulture around them in tag teams after startled speculoos. (more…)

Rügen rocks!

Post
#700

0809

2019

Sun

15:30

day #

4475

1.1 k
views

Rügen has been my favourite German kitespot for 20 years. Reliable forecasts for easterly and westerly winds, plenty of space at all spots for every wind direction and no dangerously steep rock dams like on Fehmarn are reason enough, right? Oh yes, the largest standing area in Europe off Suhrendorf and plenty of flat water at practically every spot, as well as some wave spots in the east: time for the second kite report after ten trips.

The three of us set off from Regensburg early in the morning with a bus, trailer, seven boards and even more kites for the nine-hour journey to Rügen. The forecast has fluctuated quite a lot over the last few days, and the wind directions have also varied considerably. In the afternoon, we land at the Ummaii Surf Hostel in Suhrendorf, put up in one of the simple, affordable cabins with eight beds and immediately push the trailer to the dyke 200 metres away. (more…)

Road trip Slovenia

Post
#699

1907

2019

Fri

12:33

day #

4424

764
views

The journey to the Triglav National Park takes eight hours and small country roads over high passes to the Predil fortress from the First World War on the border between Italy and Slovenia. The lake glistens silver in the sun between the white Julian Alps. After the descent, we land at the small Toprafting camp. Colourful travellers full of stories from all over the world celebrate under the roof in the approaching downpour.

Our tent leaks on the very first night. It is bitterly cold under the thick rain clouds. I have reactivated my winter sleeping bag after my recent Fehmarn cold trauma – but Steffi only has a small summer sleeping bag. On the very first morning, we set off on a three-hour canyoning tour with a good Chilean guide. The half-hour approach to the entrance leads steeply up the mountain at first – and then steeply down into the canyon at the end. (more…)

Fehmarn: take me home

Post
#698

0507

2019

Fri

20:11

day #

4410

650
views

The journey to the Baltic Sea takes a good nine hours and a lot of traffic jams through almost 40 degrees to Fehmarn. For many days, the wind oracles heralded the approaching end of the hottest June in living memory. Strong winds swept the heat away to the east for a whole week. There are more kites hanging in the sky over Fehmarn than baubles on a Christmas tree. The feeling is Christmas-like: very cold – but full of endorphins.

Rabbits hop fearlessly between the car and waving cornfields. Swallows give wind warnings by scratching their belly feathers on blades of grass. Shawn the sheep bleat as they graze on the dykes. The radio warns wind-prone vehicles not to cross exposed bridges. The trees are bending. We are clearly in the right place at the right time. (more…)

Mindoro, Bislig Beach

Post
#697

0503

2019

Tue

10:36

day #

4288

1.7 k
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I was super sceptical before my last kitespot. You usually only find so many good reports on the web if someone pays a lot for promotion. But kitesuf-mindoro.com on Bislig Beach near Bulalacao really is an absolute kitesurfing paradise. I immediately decide to stay here for my last week.

The accommodation in five-metre-diameter safari tents or bungalows on the beach is a dream under palm trees rustling in the wind. The turquoise 300 metre wide bay at Bislig Beach points exactly towards Amihan and is just big enough for 20 kiters. As the small resort is already geared towards soft tourism and sustainability, as well as the involvement of the local Magayan tribe, it is still not crowded here. (more…)

Libagau & Nabagat

Post
#696

0103

2019

Fri

23:24

day #

4284

828
views

15 kiters travel from Camp Kitesurf Mindoro to the village by minivan and take a banka to the island of Libagau, an hour off Mindoro. The spray spills refreshingly over the deck from the crisp swell. In front of the island, we pull the banca on foot over some sea urchin nests through the shallows of today’s low tide towards the beach. Starfish RGB shine in the crystal-clear water.

The island of Libagau looks like the ultimate kitesurfing paradise: turquoise water, white beach, blue sky, green trees. The wind blows sideoff at a good 18 to 22 knots over the spot, which is not without danger. At low tide, the water in the choppy bay behind the sandbank in the south-west of the island is very shallow. There are some rocks and sea urchins. There are also a few sharp pieces of coral on the beach. (more…)

Overload

Post
#695

2602

2019

Tue

23:37

day #

4281

443
views

I rarely have an overload when travelling, almost never the feeling that it’s just too much. Today I have met my match. I miss the last non-stop night bus from Pagudpud for a good schnitzel. The competition catches up with the bus as far as Laoag. I rush through the city on a trike and jump on the night bus to Manila at the last minute.

Even before five o’clock in the morning, the traffic is absolutely crazy again. Taxi to the next bus two hours down to Batangas, up on the Speed Cat to Mindoro. In Calapan there are only minivans. The block attendant squeezes 18 passengers into mine, four on each bench and especially the last bench – mine – has ten centimetres of negative legroom. (more…)

Pagudpud

Post
#694

2402

2019

Sun

8:13

day #

4279

838
views

The windiest spot in Asia is located in the very north-west of the Philippine main island of Luzon. Pagudpud is a completely different world again. In the 70s, the Markos regime sent many people here to Hawaii to obtain foreign currency. Today, they are a good deal richer than the rest of the Philippines. The houses are solidly built, some of them real castles, and many of them are fronted by really big cars.

I put up in a cheap homestay. Seas of green rice fields stretch from the village to the high mountains in the south. Saud Beach is pretty much the most idyllic tropical beach I’ve ever seen. Unfortunately, Amihan is fully covered by the wind from the coastline. (more…)

Fun facts from a clean country

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#693

2002

2019

Wed

9:15

day #

4275