Rügen has been my favourite German kitespot for 20 years. Reliable forecasts for easterly and westerly winds, plenty of space at all spots for every wind direction and no dangerously steep rock dams like on Fehmarn are reason enough, right? Oh yes, the largest standing area in Europe off Suhrendorf and plenty of flat water at practically every spot, as well as some wave spots in the east: time for the second kite report after ten trips.
The three of us set off from Regensburg early in the morning with a bus, trailer, seven boards and even more kites for the nine-hour journey to Rügen. The forecast has fluctuated quite a lot over the last few days, and the wind directions have also varied considerably. In the afternoon, we land at the Ummaii Surf Hostel in Suhrendorf, put up in one of the simple, affordable cabins with eight beds and immediately push the trailer to the dyke 200 metres away.
The wind blows at a comfortable 18 knots until the glowing sun sets behind the island of Ummanz, four kilometres to the west. Just 20 kiters occupy a few square kilometres of standing area. The main spot is located 400 metres to the south at the Suhrendorf campsite. We go out directly in front of the surf hostel, which is still half-tolerated at the moment.
It’s already the off-season, the best wind on the whole Baltic Sea is from April to the beginning of June and from the end of August to October. Before and after that, the low bays cool down drastically. In summer there is usually not much going on, only this July we once had 17 to 30 knots on Fehmarn for a week after a heavy heat wave – at a cold 15 °C.
We have better luck on Rügen. The second morning brings a brief spell of heavy rain. From midday onwards, the wind is blowing again at a nice 18°C. In the late afternoon, the wind picks up to a nice 25 knots. I accelerate in the flat water off the dyke on the 10 XR4. The new Woo gives me 6.2 metres of height. Many thanks for the great pictures, Jörg! Satisfied, I have a beer with Max while Jörg jumps over and through the setting sun in the wind, which is now dying down again.
Suhrendorf is nice, and the large kite school at the campsite next door is certainly a plus point for beginners. But if you only stay at one of the 20 designated legal kitespots on Rügen, you’re doing something wrong. We take the Wittow ferry across to North Rügen and land in Wiek. We got a very good deal for the luxurious Stenhuus directly behind the small kitespot at the back. The wind is a bit lousy today, which is welcome after yesterday – especially as we have a private sauna in the house.
The forecast for the next day promised legends – and kept its word. The wind was already blowing at a nice 20 knots early in the morning, good wind for the rather elephantine 13.5 XR4. Good kite friend Wilko comes up from Berlin for the best day of the year. Then a quiet thunderstorm cell storms over us with horizontal rain and 35 knots. We take cover for a moment. The hottest session of the year begins.
The water is flying at 28 to 35 knots. Rocket weather for the 10. The small second Wiek launch site has far fewer radical Czechs, but the day before the westerly wind had a decent southerly breeze. The trees in the lee then swirled the wind, causing some riders to smear their kites up to four times just before the rosehip thorns and trees in the lee. Today, with a pure westerly wind from the side, everything was perfect. Kite up and out.
I like to approach strong winds slowly, feeling my way towards what’s possible. After a while, the jumps in 30 cm of flat water 20 metres off the beach take me out over five metres. Transitions only go up to three metres by pulling in slightly.
The spot in Wiek quickly becomes very crowded due to a few kite schools. Yesterday’s 60 kiters are no longer travelling close together between the students in 30 knots – but more wind means more space is needed.
We notice surfers jumping quite well on the wind waves in the centre of Wieker Bodden and cross out. The kickers are only 40 cm high, but just where they start coming from the east they have a good direction to the right. Further towards the centre of the Bodden to the southwest, their direction changes to “less usable”.
I cruise slowly. Look. See the right wave. Take a run-up. Catch one of the first waves perfectly. I come up, so high that fear sets in and yodelling leaves my mouth uncontrollably. Life in slow motion and Macrovision.
The flat water behind the waves can also be utilised quite well in the other direction. In between, Max rides a few small, slow and beautifully breaking waves. I lose track of time. The wind is now blowing at over 30 knots in the centre, the 10 is slowly reaching its limit. Flying a few more times. Riding. Silence in the storm and slow motion in flight. Happy kite and a big grin.
On land, the Woo gives me 2.5 hours on the water and a nice record of 8.5 metres height / 7 seconds hangtime. Prince of the air after a Czech with 8.7 metres, Jörg right behind me with 7 metres. The sun sets in a Lord of the Rings epic.
The wind dies down on the last day. A few more hours of cruising with the 13.5 m. After the day before, it’s all in vain – and that’s a good thing. I go out and watch the dense light wind from above. My knee is a mess again. Yesterday was easily worth two weeks of limping – but next time I should definitely jump more in the other direction. Thanks for the great trip, Jörg, Max and Wilko! Rügen ROCKS!




















Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.