Every major island in the Philippines is divided into two halves, Oriental and Occidental. This gives the inhabitants the feeling of living on their own continent. When travelling on the large islands by motorbike, it often feels even bigger.
In Sipalay’s largest shop, they hold out a box of cornflakes to me when I ask for muesli bars for the hike. The only ATM doesn’t take my card and I have hardly any money left. Motorbikes are hard to come by and more expensive than anywhere else. Only after some time as a passenger on a pedal bike do I find a cheap motorbike to hire.
The next largest town is on this side of the continent. But it’s still a good two hours away by bike. I make my way north to the provincial capital of Kabankalan. There’s not much difference to Negros Oriental. Sugar cane everywhere. Also sugar cane lorries and narrow-gauge railways. The only difference: Negros Occidental seems to be even poorer. The trikes are often bikes, even on the main road and for long distances. The trikes look different here, and are also called something else: Habal-Habal. I count up to eleven people on a single one.
The sun is beating down, it’s very hot and humid. Sugar cane country, after all. I arrive in Kabankalan at midday. Traffic jam. The change between town and country is always intense. I find a bank that accepts my card for a hefty fee. Even the biggest supermarket here doesn’t have muesli bars, but at least it has a better selection of calorie bombs. I stock up for the hike and buy a Christmas present for tomorrow.
After a detour inland towards Mabinay, I make my way back. Despite SPF 30 and six weeks of pre-tanning, my arms are already bright red. The engine is ticking, doesn’t seem to be getting enough gas or air. 40 kilometres before Sipalay, there’s a strange clacking noise from the front wheel that I’ve never heard before and can’t make out despite searching. Jeeps with 20 people on the roof pass by.
Tomorrow there’s the big Worldwide Christmas Madness Special. Take a look, it’s worth it …
Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.