The poster says “No speeding, reliable and not overcrowded.” The speed van is the best way to travel south from El Nido. Departure is at seven in the morning. The helpers seem to have mistaken my kiteboard for a negative spoiler. The way they lash it loosely to the back of the roof, it is predestined for flying. The threat of the death penalty makes things better.
The bus has 16 seats. As there are only 12 passengers today, this is considered “not overcrowded”. The legroom is -15cm. The track to the south is largely unpaved. The driver speeds through all the potholes towards Roxas at up to 100 km/h in best Peterhansel style. He covers the almost 200 kilometres in four hours. By then, the rain and the cloud of dust have ruined all our luggage on the roof.
In Roxas we change to a jeepney, the Philippine means of transport par excellence. Jeepneys are elongated jeeps, at least 40 years old, around seven metres long and pimped with great attention to detail. Two long benches at the back facing the direction of travel, massive bull bars at the front and thick luggage racks at the top. The most important feature, however, is the slogans at the rear. Very popular this year, and also enormously helpful when neither the steering nor the brakes agree with the rider: “God with us”.
As soon as the jeepney is full (i.e. about 14 people), we set off. Shortly afterwards, a few more crates of market goods are loaded. Then their owners follow. Then another old couple. And five more backpackers. A couple of labourers on the back of the bull bar. Finally, a few schoolchildren on the roof. Done. A jeepney with 36 people and about 50 km of muddy jungle track to Port Barton ahead of us.
In the middle of the jungle, we get stuck in deep mud on a steep incline. In addition, the gearstick is scratching. The driver and his assistant remove it and straighten it out with a few hammer blows. A few iron chains and rocks under the wheels, some more digging, the smell of clutch discs at the limit, and on we go. After two hours we arrive in Port Barton. It’s raining.
In Port Barton, a private bangka to the Secret Paradise Beach Resort is waiting for us. At last something works, on time and without engine damage. After another hour or so, we finally reach our destination. Just under eight hours travelling time for approx. 150 km as the crow flies. Travelling in the Philippines is full of surprises. It is exhausting, time-consuming and dirty. A real adventure and experience. I think I’ve experienced enough on this one point now.
Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.