Nothing new in Akaroa

I continue northwards. I’m riding fast today. 300 kilometres to the Akaroa Peninsula near Christchurch is a lot. I thought so. But between Oamaru and Christchurch is probably the longest, most boring and straightest road in New Zealand: 40 kilometres without a bend. I arrive four hours earlier than expected.

Akaroa is the Tuscany of New Zealand. An old volcanic crater, open to the south. Turquoise blue water and Mediterranean temperatures. It smells of lavender, thyme, cedar and pine trees. The fields are dry and golden in colour. Even some of the houses are imported directly from Tuscany. I drive to Omuku Farm Lodge. Kerstin is working here for three months.

The same happy music is still playing on the journey here. I’m travelling alone. I rarely experience this state: completely alone and completely happy. I have it today. Several times… or almost all the time. Everything is good. I’m on my way.

I say hello to the new hostel manager Kerstin, a nice cherry-addicted Australian woman sitting right next to reception. Of course, I have to get on well with her for the sake of our shared addiction. We drive around Akaroa a bit. I look for a good wind. There’s no wind anywhere today, but it’s not too bad. Australia knows the way and the animals and she also teaches me good English.

Omuku Farm annoys the web designer again: although they have WiFi, I’m not allowed in with my own laptop. This makes the third day offline. I’m getting a bit annoyed, even angrier. Kiwis pay an average of €40 a month for a full flat rate. Thanks to nice hourly rates and restrictions, I was able to pay €300 spread over many hostels in the first month. My decision: no more! I’m going to learn to hack WiFis.

This evening is one of so many. It’s nice not just to cook for myself. Still, it’s all far too much. The view of the crater is gigantic, the conversations great. But at some point I can’t help myself: I just long for a guitar. I grab it and play as the sun sets, playing until everyone is in bed. I sit on the edge of the crater. Stars above. Sheep in the back. Water in front.

It’s getting light back there. And black turns to grey, turns to red, turns to light, and dazed and blurred, you recognise what you want. My world cancelled. My world explained in three words.