We drive on to Rotorua, an old thermal spa town. Geysers and mud holes bubble all around us. You can let off whatever you want without hesitation. There is sulphur in the air everywhere. Everything is incredibly expensive, especially adrenaline rushes. Our accommodation is Cactus Jack, a nice western village hostel in downtown Rotorua. Lisa has organised a meeting with the two Daves from Mana.
The night gets off to a bloody start. At some point I hear that the two Daves are heading south. The four of us had rented a campervan for three weeks. After five days, I’m left alone. The lights go out, the night gets even bloodier. A concert, a club. The constant “Are you alright?” Questions annoy me. No, not at all.
It was really nice travelling around New Zealand with the two of them. I really liked them both. Neither of them probably knows how happy they made me. Couldn’t even say how.
That night, I tell Marc the first sign of honour: to keep his word. But he’s too drunk again. I avoid Lisa all night. Both are pure gold, and each wastes his treasure in his own way. It was hard to watch.
The hostel is locked at three o’clock, so I climb over the roof. It’s rumbling. I hate few things, but this one I really hate. Unreliability is at the top of my list.
We’ve booked rafting in the morning. Lisa falls flat after last night, couldn’t cope with the New Zealand party pills. Marc is in. The trip on the Kaituna isn’t long, but it’s tough. Difficulty level 5, the highest waterfall is 7 metres. I swallow water like a fish. The canyon is narrow and beautiful, dense rainforest and ferns on both sides. But I’m not focussed. My head is spinning.
We drive back to the hostel. The farewell is short and cold, I would have preferred not to do it at all. I’m glad they both say C ya, not goodbye. Otherwise I would have had to lie. I drive Pete back to Auckland at full speed in silence. He has a job offer there. We drive up Mount Eden again. Shit, that was beautiful, in the middle of the night and in the rain. Much nicer than now in the sunshine.
Back at Yaping House, I get the same room again. I look at the three empty beds and wonder which one I should take. The best thing against staying behind is to keep going.





Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.