Full throttle to Northland

In the morning, I finally swap cars. Smaller, newer and much safer. As I return the estate early, I’m stuck with an extra $100. No matter. Onwards. Up to Yaping House. An email almost tears me apart, but it’s good, very good. Frees me up. The sun is shining and the radio is playing Foo Fighters. I set off for Nordland.

A day to heat up. I only find out how much 20km/h too much costs in the evening. Tomorrow I’ll drive slower. On the almost 180 kilometres from Auckland to Whangarei, I stop at every single beach. I’m on the hunt for wind. My new yellow wings insistently demand to be released from the boot. But there is no wind until shortly before Whangarei.

Behind a bend, I mow down almost 20 of the 500 or so sheep. To save money and increase safety, I only took out basic car insurance with a €1500 excess. No faults for nine days. Today I hit a Kiwi at a red light. He: “You’re alright?”. Me:” Yeah, what about your car?” He:” It’s okay, let’s go on.” Yes, you can’t see anything. A normal German would still have shouted for half an hour.

I finally arrive on a peninsula in the bay off Whangarei. I wind my way through a residential area. I find the hidden access to the small beach where the wind is blowing onshore at 20 knots. One tree. Beautiful. Some kiters are there. I want to get out. My cold from the Bay of Plenty prevents me from doing so, I have to keep going.

A few days ago, I started a new wave of enquiries on Couchsurfing. America means: one overnight stay for 20 requests. So I start here with 30. Two days later I have 20 very friendly accommodation offers all over the North Island. The first one is in Whangarei, and I’m there in good time at five.

Stu is a laid-back property agent in his mid-40s, with Prodigy and Smashing Pumpkins playing on the stereo. His friends come in and out. A deep-sea diver from the depths beyond 150 metres joins us for dinner. There’s a sheepskin on his enduro. The steak and 1.5 litres of juice finish me off, I’m completely full and exhausted. I need to recover.