The night is only three hours short. At five o’clock we pack our things and catch the bus to Tongariro Crossing, an eight-hour trek across an active volcano. The sun is rising. The rocks at Lake Taupo look like Middle Earth. We set off an hour later. The path first leads gently through black lava fields and low-hanging clouds.
The ascent soon becomes more challenging. 300 metres in altitude over a loose lava field with a 60% gradient leave us steaming. At the top, the clouds break and we can see the summit of the volcano Mount Ruapehu. Then we pass through the first crater. The earth steams as we pass snow-covered slopes.
After another ascent, we head uphill to the destination of our trek, the Red Crater at an altitude of 1900 metres. The volcano had a small eruption here a few weeks ago. The earth is still steaming. While a stiff 5 degree breeze stiffens our cheeks, we dance on the volcano. We sit down for a picnic. Our bums are steaming hot, the air is shimmering. After a good 3.5 hours of climbing, we make our way back, not to the other side like everyone else, but back again.
I had heard that parts of The Lord of the Rings were filmed here. I only find out which ones back at the hostel. My legs tremble all the more when I hear that we have just climbed Mount Doom.
That was better than skydiving. Much better. Deserved to stay.






Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.