Somehow I’m gradually developing a soft spot for heavy physical exercise after short, heavy nights. This night was very short again and my head was quite cloudy in the morning. We check out of the hostel and make our way to the nearby Mount Taranaki / Mount Egmont at around 10am. a 2500 metre volcano rises directly from the sea into the sky.
Even the journey there is awe-inspiring. After half a round trip, we arrive at the top car park at just under 1000m around midday. Unfortunately, we are a little too late for a full ascent. From 2000 metres upwards, you need high alpine equipment because the thing is still glaciated at the top. We set off on shaky legs.
We pass through several vegetation zones. First rainforest, jungle, ferns. Moss everywhere, relatively cool and damp. The Kiwis have turned the entire hiking trail into a single Stairway to Heaven. Thousands of steps lead up to 1600 metres. Unfortunately, Kerstin drops out after a good hour due to the threat of sunstroke. It really burns. I’m quickly soaking wet.
After the bush vegetation comes volcanic steppe from about 1400 metres. Steps and stiles help me to manage the 45 degree gradient. Then comes the steepest part: about 300 metres of loose volcanic scree, 100% gradient. Every step up is half a step down. Stones keep falling from above, the footsteps of those before me are dusty in the strong wind.
Susi leaps upwards like a mountain goat. Allgäu style. I pant dizzily up to the saddle. Firstly, strong gusts of wind have dried me out. Secondly, my cap was blown away by the wind. And thirdly, I was almost blown backwards down the scree field a few times.
The visibility is tremendous at 2000 metres. I quickly jump half a kilometre over the saddle and some snowfields, then I can see the sea. The storm is blowing here at over 80km/h. I can’t continue without winter gear. I’m happy. Another big grin. On the way back, I notice Mount Ruapehu, one of the two other mighty volcanoes on the North Island, almost 150 kilometres away.
The way back over the scree field is murder. Murder because when you fall, it really hurts. Fun because this is probably how big-foot skiing was invented. The scree is so loose that you can surf down it, and it’s really quick. Susi then storms down the few thousand steps down the mountain at a monkey’s pace. We cover 1000 metres in less than an hour and head back to New Plymouth at five o’clock.
Russell had invited us, which we gladly accepted. After all, the chaos should be cleared up by this time (sorry, Russ:-). We cook a massive pasta bake and chat to the people in Russell’s flat share. I’m working, but there’s not enough time. I’ll have to take a break from travelling. We sign Russell’s couch and fall dead into bed. Long day.






Frank Woelky, born in 1973. Kitesurfer since 1998. Since 2006, I have been combining kitesurfing and web design on trips lasting several months off the beaten track.